From Seed to Harvest: How to Grow Tarragon at Home

Growing tarragon isn’t particularly difficult once you know which variety you’re working with and what it actually needs. French tarragon requires a different approach than Russian tarragon, and both have specific preferences that, when met, will reward you with years of harvests. I’ve found that tarragon thrives in conditions that mirror its origins in southern Europe and western Asia, which means well-drained soil, plenty of sun, and a relatively hands-off approach once established. Let’s look at how to grow tarragon.

This guide covers everything from selecting the right variety and sourcing plants to maintaining healthy growth throughout the seasons. Whether you’re growing tarragon in containers on a balcony or dedicating a corner of your vegetable patch to perennial herbs, you’ll find practical advice based on what actually works in British growing conditions. If you want to explore more unique crops and growing guides then perhaps you would like to also read our guide on from seed to harvest: your complete mustard greens guide.

How to Grow Tarragon

Getting set up for tarragon doesn’t require much in the way of specialist equipment, but having the right materials from the start makes the process considerably smoother. Here’s what I recommend having to hand before you begin.

Growing French Tarragon

French tarragon must be grown from cuttings, root divisions, or purchased plants since it doesn’t produce viable seed. You’ll need a healthy plant from a reputable nursery or garden centre, or cuttings from a friend’s established plant. I’ve had brilliant results purchasing small plug plants from herb specialists who guarantee French tarragon, though you’ll pay more than you would for Russian tarragon seeds.

You’ll also need well-draining compost mixed with horticultural grit or sharp sand. Tarragon absolutely detests sitting in waterlogged soil, and I’ve lost plants to root rot when I didn’t add enough drainage material. Aim for about one part grit to three parts compost. If you’re planting directly into the ground, a bag of grit to improve your existing soil structure is essential unless you’re blessed with naturally sandy soil. You might also find the complete guide to growing mizuna in your garden helpful.

A container with drainage holes works well if your soil is heavy clay. I use terracotta pots for my tarragon because they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the sides, though any pot with adequate drainage will do. You’ll want something at least 25-30cm deep to accommodate the root system.

Growing Russian Tarragon

Russian tarragon seeds are widely available and germinate readily, though as I’ve mentioned, the flavour doesn’t compare to French tarragon. If you’re growing Russian tarragon, you’ll need seed compost, small pots or modules for starting seeds, and a propagator or clear plastic bags to maintain humidity during germination.

The same soil requirements apply: well-draining compost with added grit. Russian tarragon grows larger and more vigorous than French tarragon, so you’ll need slightly more space. Both varieties benefit from a sunny spot, so consider your planting location carefully. I’ve noticed tarragon grown in partial shade becomes leggy and produces less flavourful foliage.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Choosing Your Variety and Sourcing Plants

Before you do anything else, decide which tarragon you’re actually after. If you want proper tarragon flavour for béarnaise sauce, chicken dishes, or flavoured vinegar, you need French tarragon. There’s no way around this. Russian tarragon might be easier to grow from seed, but it’s simply not the same herb.

To source French tarragon, visit a reputable nursery or herb specialist. I’ve found that smaller, independent nurseries often have better-quality plants than large garden centres. Ask to smell the leaves before purchasing. Genuine French tarragon has a sweet, anise-like aroma. If it smells of nothing much, you’re looking at Russian tarragon or a very stressed plant.

Alternatively, if you know someone growing French tarragon, ask for a cutting or root division in spring. I’ve propagated dozens of plants this way with excellent success rates. Take cuttings of about 10-15cm from new growth, remove the lower leaves, and place them in gritty compost. Keep them moist and in a sheltered spot, and most will root within three to four weeks.

Preparing Your Planting Site

Tarragon needs full sun for at least six hours daily. I’ve tried growing it in shadier spots, and whilst it survives, the growth is weak and the flavour diminishes considerably. Choose the sunniest part of your garden, ideally somewhere with good air circulation to prevent fungal issues.

Soil preparation is critical. Dig over your planting area and incorporate plenty of grit or sand if your soil is heavy. Tarragon originates from dry, rocky areas and evolved to cope with poor soil and irregular water. Rich, moisture-retentive soil actually works against it. I learned this the hard way in my first attempt, planting tarragon in beautifully enriched vegetable bed soil. The plant grew large but had little flavour and eventually rotted at the base during a wet autumn.

If you’re planting in containers, use a soil-based compost mixed with at least 25% grit. Avoid peat-free composts that retain too much moisture unless you compensate with extra drainage material. Make sure your container has multiple drainage holes. I drill extra holes in the bottom and sides of plastic pots to ensure water never accumulates.

Planting French Tarragon

The best time to plant French tarragon is late spring, after the last frost risk has passed. In most of the UK, this means late April or May, though you might get away with earlier planting in milder regions like Cornwall or the south coast. Tarragon is reasonably hardy (surviving down to about minus 10°C), but young plants benefit from frost-free establishment.

Dig a hole slightly larger than your plant’s root ball. I don’t add fertiliser or compost to the hole itself since tarragon prefers lean conditions. Place the plant at the same depth it was growing in its pot, backfill with your gritty soil mix, and firm gently. Water thoroughly after planting, then back off significantly with watering thereafter.

Space plants about 40-50cm apart if you’re growing multiple specimens. French tarragon doesn’t spread as aggressively as some herbs, but it does expand gradually through underground rhizomes. In containers, one plant per 30cm pot is sufficient.

Ongoing Care and Watering

Here’s where tarragon differs from many other herbs: it needs very little attention once established. I water my established tarragon perhaps once a fortnight during dry spells, and not at all during typical British summers with regular rainfall. Overwatering is the most common cause of tarragon failure. The leaves should feel slightly dry and papery to the touch. If they’re lush and soft, you’re watering too much.

Container-grown tarragon needs more frequent watering than ground-planted specimens, but still far less than basil or parsley. I let the compost dry out almost completely between waterings. During winter, I barely water at all, perhaps once a month if we’re having an unusually dry spell.

Feeding isn’t necessary. I’ve never fertilised my tarragon plants, and they’re perfectly healthy. Rich soil or added fertiliser produces lots of leafy growth with diluted flavour. The best-tasting tarragon I’ve grown has been in poor, gritty soil where it’s slightly stressed. This concentrates the essential oils that give tarragon its characteristic flavour.

Harvesting Your Tarragon

You can start harvesting tarragon once the plant is established and growing vigorously, usually about six to eight weeks after planting. I take individual stems rather than just picking leaves, cutting about 10-15cm from the top of each stem. This encourages bushier growth and prevents the plant from becoming leggy.

The flavour is strongest just before the plant flowers, typically in early to midsummer. I harvest heavily during this period, drying or freezing excess leaves for winter use. Tarragon doesn’t dry as well as some herbs (the flavour fades considerably), so I prefer freezing chopped leaves in ice cube trays with a little water or oil.

Never harvest more than about one third of the plant at any one time. I’ve made the mistake of cutting back too hard, and whilst the plant recovered, it took several weeks to produce usable growth again. Regular, moderate harvesting keeps the plant productive and compact.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Buying Russian Tarragon Seeds Instead of French Tarragon Plants

This is far and away the most common mistake, and I see it repeatedly in gardening forums and social media groups. Someone buys tarragon seeds, carefully nurtures them, grows decent-looking plants, then wonders why their tarragon tastes of nothing. If you’ve bought seeds labelled simply ‘tarragon’, you’ve almost certainly got Russian tarragon. It’s not useless (you can use it in salads for a mild flavour), but it’s not what recipes calling for tarragon actually mean.

The only reliable way to grow proper French tarragon is from plants, cuttings, or root divisions. Accept this from the start and save yourself disappointment. Yes, plants cost more than seeds, but a single French tarragon plant will provide cuttings for propagating more plants, so your initial investment multiplies quickly.

Overwatering and Poor Drainage

I’ve killed more tarragon through kindness (overwatering) than through neglect. Tarragon’s natural habitat is dry and rocky, and it’s adapted to cope with drought far better than constant moisture. In British conditions, where we get regular rainfall, this means being quite restrained with additional watering.

Poor drainage compounds this issue. Heavy clay soil or compost without adequate grit creates conditions where water accumulates around the roots, leading to rot. I’ve dug up failed tarragon plants to find black, mushy roots where healthy white roots should be. If your soil is heavy, either improve it dramatically with grit and organic matter or grow tarragon in containers where you can control the growing medium completely.

Planting in Shade or Partial Shade

Tarragon needs full sun. I’ve experimented with shadier positions, hoping to make use of less-than-ideal spots in the garden, and it simply doesn’t work well. The plants survive but produce sparse, elongated growth with weak flavour. When I moved the same plants to a sunny position, the transformation within weeks was remarkable. The foliage became denser, more aromatic, and the flavour intensified noticeably.

If you only have shady growing space, tarragon isn’t the best choice. Consider shade-tolerant herbs like mint, parsley, or chervil instead. Tarragon in shade is a waste of time and space.

Allowing Plants to Become Too Large and Woody

French tarragon is a perennial that can live for years, but it performs best when divided regularly. After three or four years, established plants become woody at the base, produce less tender growth, and the flavour quality declines. I’ve learned to divide my tarragon every three years or so, which rejuvenates the plants and provides extras to share or plant elsewhere.

Division is straightforward: dig up the plant in spring, split it into several sections (each with roots and shoots), and replant the most vigorous portions. Discard the old, woody centre. This keeps your tarragon productive and prevents the sprawling, untidy growth that develops in very old plants.

Expert Tips

Protecting Tarragon Through Winter

French tarragon is reasonably hardy and survives most British winters without protection, but there are a few things that improve its chances. The plant dies back completely in autumn, which can be alarming if you’re not expecting it. Don’t assume it’s dead when the foliage turns brown and withers. This is normal dormancy.

I cut back dead growth to about 5cm above ground level in late autumn. This tidies the plant and reduces the risk of fungal issues over winter. In colder regions (northern England, Scotland, exposed upland areas), a layer of grit or gravel over the root crown provides additional protection. I don’t use organic mulches like compost or bark because they retain too much moisture and can cause the crown to rot.

Container-grown tarragon is more vulnerable to cold because the roots are more exposed. I move my pots to a sheltered spot against a south-facing wall during winter. If you’re in a particularly cold area, wrapping containers with bubble wrap provides extra insulation without creating excessive moisture.

Using Tarragon to Improve Other Plants

Tarragon has mild allelopathic properties, meaning it releases compounds that can suppress certain nearby plants. I’ve noticed this particularly with young seedlings. However, it seems to have a beneficial relationship with some vegetables. I’ve grown tarragon near brassicas without issues, and some gardeners report that it may help deter certain pests, though I haven’t seen conclusive evidence of this in my own garden.

What I have found is that tarragon makes an excellent companion for aubergines and peppers in a greenhouse or polytunnel. The relatively dry conditions these heat-loving plants prefer suit tarragon perfectly, and you can tuck a tarragon plant into a corner where it’ll thrive whilst taking up minimal space.

Maximising Flavour Through Growing Conditions

The most intensely flavoured tarragon I’ve grown has been in less-than-ideal soil that’s quite poor and very free-draining. A plant growing in rich soil with regular watering will be larger but less aromatic. This counterintuitive principle applies to many Mediterranean herbs but seems particularly pronounced with tarragon.

I’ve deliberately grown tarragon in almost pure grit mixed with just enough compost to provide minimal nutrients, and the resulting flavour was exceptional. The plant was smaller than well-fed specimens, but every leaf packed considerably more punch. If you’re growing tarragon primarily for cooking rather than ornamental purposes, err on the side of lean, dry conditions.

Propagating French Tarragon Successfully

Since French tarragon doesn’t produce viable seed, propagation through cuttings or division is essential if you want more plants. I take softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing. Cuttings taken from very young, tender growth root most reliably.

Use a very gritty compost mix (at least 50% grit) for cuttings. I’ve found that tarragon cuttings rot easily in standard cutting compost that’s too moisture-retentive. Strip the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it (though I’ve had success without), and insert several cuttings around the edge of a small pot. Cover with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity, but remove it daily to prevent excessive moisture buildup.

Cuttings typically root in three to four weeks. Once you see new growth, you can pot them individually. I keep newly rooted cuttings in pots for their first winter rather than planting them out, which gives them a better start the following spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I grow French tarragon from seed?

No, you cannot successfully grow true French tarragon from seed because it produces sterile flowers that don’t set viable seed. Any seeds sold as ‘tarragon’ or even ‘French tarragon’ are Russian tarragon, which is a different plant with far inferior flavour. This is one of the most frustrating aspects of growing tarragon because seeds are so much cheaper and easier to source than plants. However, there’s no way around this botanical reality. If you want genuine French tarragon with that distinctive anise flavour, you must start with plants, cuttings, or root divisions from an existing French tarragon plant. The good news is that once you have one plant, you can propagate it indefinitely through cuttings or division, so your initial investment goes a long way.

Why does my tarragon have no flavour?

The most likely explanation is that you’re growing Russian tarragon rather than French tarragon. Russian tarragon looks similar but has almost no flavour compared to its French cousin. If you grew your plant from seed, this is almost certainly the issue. However, even genuine French tarragon can lose flavour under certain conditions. Overwatering and overly rich soil dilute the essential oils that give tarragon its characteristic taste. Plants grown in shade also produce less flavourful leaves. Additionally, very old tarragon plants (more than four or five years without division) gradually decline in flavour quality. To maximise flavour, grow French tarragon in full sun, poor to average soil, with minimal watering. Harvest regularly to encourage fresh, tender growth, which has the strongest flavour.

How much should I water tarragon?

Tarragon needs very little water once established, considerably less than most gardeners instinctively provide. I water established tarragon growing in the ground only during prolonged dry spells, perhaps once a fortnight at most during a typical summer. The soil should dry out almost completely between waterings. Container-grown tarragon needs more frequent watering but still far less than herbs like basil or parsley. I let the compost dry out substantially before watering again, and during winter dormancy, I barely water at all. Overwatering is one of the most common causes of tarragon failure. The plants are adapted to dry, rocky conditions and cope with drought far better than constant moisture. If in doubt, underwater rather than overwater. Tarragon leaves should feel slightly papery and dry rather than lush and soft.

Does tarragon come back every year?

Yes, French tarragon is a herbaceous perennial that dies back completely in autumn and regrows from the roots each spring. The above-ground growth turns brown and withers away, which can be alarming if you’re not expecting it, but this is completely normal winter dormancy. The plant remains alive underground and will produce new shoots when temperatures warm up in spring, typically April or May in most of the UK. I cut back the dead foliage in late autumn to keep things tidy. French tarragon is reasonably hardy and survives most British winters without protection, tolerating temperatures down to about minus 10°C. In very cold areas or for container-grown plants, some winter protection (moving pots to sheltered spots, adding a grit mulch over the crown) improves survival rates. With proper care, a single tarragon plant can live for many years, though dividing it every three or four years maintains vigour and flavour quality.

Can tarragon grow in pots?

Absolutely, and in fact, container growing is often better than planting in the ground if you have heavy, clay soil with poor drainage. Tarragon thrives in pots as long as you provide the right conditions. Use a container at least 25-30cm deep with multiple drainage holes. I prefer terracotta pots because they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the sides, but any well-draining pot works. Use a very gritty compost mix, at least one part horticultural grit to three parts soil-based compost. Place the pot in the sunniest position available. Container-grown tarragon needs more frequent watering than ground-planted specimens but still requires the soil to dry out between waterings. During winter dormancy, move pots to a sheltered spot and reduce watering to minimal levels. One advantage of container growing is that you can control the growing medium completely, ensuring the sharp drainage tarragon requires. The main disadvantage is that pots need more attention to watering and provide less root insulation during cold winters.

When should I harvest tarragon?

You can begin harvesting tarragon once the plant is well established and growing vigorously, usually six to eight weeks after planting. The best time for harvesting is in the morning after any dew has dried but before the day gets hot, when the essential oil content is highest. The flavour is strongest just before flowering, typically in early to midsummer, so this is when I do my heaviest harvesting for preserving. Take whole stems rather than individual leaves, cutting 10-15cm from the top of each stem. This encourages bushier, more compact growth. Never harvest more than about one third of the plant at any one time to ensure continued healthy growth. Regular, moderate harvesting throughout the growing season keeps the plant productive and prevents it from becoming leggy. You can continue light harvesting until the plant begins to die back in autumn, though the flavour is less intense later in the season.

What’s the difference between French and Russian tarragon?

French tarragon and Russian tarragon are related but distinctly different plants with dramatically different culinary value. French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) has a sweet, complex anise flavour and is the variety used in classic French cooking. It doesn’t produce viable seeds, so it must be propagated from cuttings or divisions. French tarragon is less vigorous, growing to about 60cm tall, with narrow, smooth leaves. Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculoides) has almost no flavour, tasting slightly bitter and grassy with none of the aromatic quality of French tarragon. It grows more vigorously, reaching up to 150cm, and produces viable seeds that germinate readily. The leaves are slightly coarser. Russian tarragon is sometimes used in salads for a very mild flavour, but it’s not a substitute for French tarragon in recipes. The key identification method is scent: French tarragon has a strong, sweet anise aroma when you rub the leaves, whilst Russian tarragon smells of almost nothing.

Conclusion

Growing tarragon successfully comes down to understanding what you’re actually growing and providing conditions that match the plant’s natural preferences. French tarragon, the variety worth growing for culinary purposes, needs full sun, sharp drainage, and restrained watering. It won’t grow from seed, so you’ll need to source plants or cuttings, but once established, it’s a low-maintenance perennial that will provide harvests for years.

The most important lesson I’ve learned through growing tarragon is that less really is more. The instinct to water regularly, feed generously, and provide rich soil works against tarragon’s preferences. The best plants I’ve grown have been in poor, gritty soil with minimal attention. This counterintuitive approach produces smaller plants but with far superior flavour.

Whether you’re growing tarragon for béarnaise sauce, chicken dishes, or flavoured vinegar, taking the time to establish it properly will reward you with fresh herbs whenever you need them. Start with genuine French tarragon, plant it in the sunniest spot you have, improve drainage if necessary, and then largely leave it alone. With this approach, you’ll have productive tarragon plants that improve year after year.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.