How to Keep Pigs: Complete UK Guide to Space, Costs & Legal Requirements

How to keep pigs? Well it requires far less space than you might think, but considerably more paperwork than seems reasonable. The good news is that once you’ve got your head around the basics, pigs are amongst the most rewarding livestock you can keep on British soil. The self-sufficiency movement has grown substantially, and pigs offer an efficient way to convert kitchen scraps (within legal limits), garden waste, and purchased feed into high-quality pork. They’re intelligent, characterful animals that’ll clear rough ground, fertilise soil, and provide meat that’s incomparably better than anything you’ll find in shops. However, they’re also escape artists, surprisingly strong, and subject to strict regulations that exist for very good reasons – particularly following disease outbreaks like the 2000 foot-and-mouth crisis.

Whether you’re considering a couple of weaners to raise for meat or thinking about breeding stock, understanding both the practical requirements and legal framework is essential before you bring your first pig home. This guide draws on my own experience keeping Gloucester Old Spots and Saddlebacks, plus conversations with pig keepers across Devon, Shropshire, and Norfolk. Keen on ensuring you have food sovereignty? See our guide on growing food security through community action and self-reliance.

How to Keep Pigs

CPH Number and Herd Registration

Before you acquire your first pig, you must obtain a County Parish Holding (CPH) number from the Rural Payments Agency (RPA). This nine-digit identifier is fundamental to livestock traceability regulations and applies to any land keeping livestock in England and Wales. I registered my Herefordshire holding online, which took approximately three weeks to process.

The CPH system consists of three parts: the first two digits identify your county, the next three your parish, and the final four your specific holding. For example, a Shropshire holding might be 37/042/1234. Scotland uses a different system with Location Codes, whilst Northern Ireland uses DARD flock/herd numbers.

Key steps I followed: (You might also find a complete guide to keeping chickens in your garden helpful.)

• Applied via the Rural Payments service online portal
• Provided Ordnance Survey grid references for my land boundaries
• Declared all buildings where pigs would be housed
• Waited for written confirmation before collecting pigs

You must also register your pig herd with the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA), even if you’re only keeping two weaners for six months. This registration is free but mandatory under EU-derived legislation that remains in UK law post-Brexit.

Movement Licensing and the Pig Herd Register

After testing this system with my first pig movements in 2019, I can tell you that every pig movement requires documentation. When pigs arrive at your holding, you receive a movement document from the previous keeper. You must record this in your on-farm pig herd register within 36 hours and report the movement to APHA within three days.

The herd register (which can be paper or electronic) must record:

• Date of movement on or off your holding
• Number of pigs moved
• Identification marks or tag numbers
• CPH number of origin and destination
• Details of any births or deaths

This traceability system, known as the porcine identification and movement regulations, exists to control disease spread. During the 2001 foot-and-mouth outbreak, inadequate movement controls contributed to the disease affecting over 2,000 farms. I keep my register in a waterproof folder in my feed store – it must be retained for three years and made available for inspection.

Pros of the movement system:

• Protects national herd health and your investment
• Provides clear ownership documentation
• Enables rapid disease tracing if outbreaks occur

Cons of the movement system:

• Additional administrative burden for small-scale keepers
• Penalties for non-compliance can reach £5,000
• Standstill periods (20 days) apply after bringing pigs onto your holding

Standstill Restrictions

One aspect that caught me out initially: when pigs arrive at your holding, you enter a 20-day standstill period. During this time, you cannot move any pigs, sheep, goats, or deer off your land (cattle have a separate 6-day standstill). This biosecurity measure prevents disease transmission between holdings. I learned to plan movements carefully – you can’t sell weaners from your own sow if you’ve just brought in a new boar.

Space Requirements for Different Pig Systems

Minimum Space Recommendations

After keeping pigs on both half-acre and two-acre paddocks, I can confirm that space requirements vary dramatically depending on your system. The Welfare of Farmed Animals (England) Regulations 2007 doesn’t specify minimum outdoor space, but practical experience and soil health dictate realistic stocking densities.

For outdoor finishing pigs (20-100kg liveweight):

• Absolute minimum: 50-75 square metres per pig on well-drained land
• Recommended: 100-150 square metres per pig to prevent complete ground destruction
• Rotational system: 200+ square metres per pig across multiple paddocks

I’ve visited smallholdings near Exeter, Devon, where keepers successfully raise two weaners annually on 1,000 square metres (0.25 acres), rotating between two paddocks. The pigs spend three months in each area, allowing recovery time for vegetation.

For breeding sows:

• Dry sows: minimum 2.25 square metres indoor lying area, or 40 square metres outdoor per sow
• Farrowing accommodation: 6-7 square metres indoor with separate creep area
• Outdoor farrowing: 150-200 square metres per sow with farrowing ark

Stocking Density and Ground Management

The technical term for pig-induced soil damage is “poaching” – when hooves and rooting behaviour break down soil structure, creating muddy quagmires. I’ve witnessed this transform a Shropshire field from productive pasture to bare earth in six weeks during wet weather.

My recommendation: For two finishing pigs, start with at least 0.25 acres (1,000 square metres) if you have only one area. Better still, use 0.5 acres divided into two paddocks for rotation. This allows vegetation recovery and maintains some ground cover year-round.

Soil type matters enormously. Sandy, free-draining land supports higher stocking densities than heavy clay. My Herefordshire clay becomes waterlogged November through March, requiring hardstanding areas around feeders and shelters. A friend near King’s Lynn, Norfolk, keeps pigs on sandy loam and experiences far fewer mud issues with equivalent stocking rates.

Pros of generous space allowances:

• Maintains ground condition and pasture recovery
• Reduces parasite burden through rotation
• Provides environmental enrichment and natural behaviour expression
• Minimises supplementary bedding requirements

Cons of generous space allowances:

• Requires more land (limiting for small properties)
• More expensive fencing requirements
• Pigs harder to catch for health checks
• Greater perimeter to check daily for breaches

Fencing, Housing and Infrastructure

Pig Fencing That Actually Works

After testing multiple fencing systems, I’ve learned that pigs test boundaries constantly. They’re strong, persistent, and motivated by curiosity and food opportunities. Standard sheep fencing won’t contain them.

Effective options I’ve used:

• Electric fencing: Two or three strands at 15cm, 25cm, and 40cm height. Requires 5,000-volt energiser minimum (not 3,000-volt poultry systems). Cost: £200-300 for 100m with posts and energiser.
• Stock fencing with electric outrigger: Pig netting (80cm high, 8cm mesh) with single electric strand 15cm from fence at pig nose height. Cost: £400-500 per 100m including posts.
• Post and rail with wire mesh: Treated timber rails with welded mesh inner layer. Most expensive but permanent. Cost: £800-1,200 per 100m.

I currently use pig netting with electric outriggers after my first pigs learned to lift standard electric fencing with their snouts. The electric strand must be positioned where they’ll touch it before engaging with the fence structure itself.

My definitive recommendation: For beginners, use proper pig netting with an energised outrigger wire. Check voltage daily with a fence tester (£15-25 investment) – wet vegetation can drain systems remarkably quickly.

Shelter and Housing Options

Pigs require weather protection year-round. They’re susceptible to sunburn (especially pale breeds like Large Whites) and hypothermia in British winters. I’ve used both converted buildings and purpose-made arks.

Minimum shelter specifications:

• Draught-free but ventilated (condensation causes respiratory issues)
• Minimum 2 square metres floor space per finishing pig
• Waterproof roof with adequate fall for drainage
• Deep bedding area (straw is best for insulation and management)
• Doorway sized for pig access but manageable for mucking out

Pig arks (curved corrugated steel or timber structures) cost £400-800 new, or £200-400 second-hand. I purchased refurbished farrowing arks from a farm near Ludlow, Shropshire, for £250 each. After three years’ use, they’ve proved entirely adequate for two finishing pigs, provided I bed them deeply from October onwards.

Pros of arks:

• Portable for rotational systems
• No planning permission usually required (check locally)
• Easy to clean between batches

Cons of arks:

• Can blow over in extreme winds if not anchored
• Limited headroom for human access
• Condensation issues if poorly ventilated

Feed, Water and Daily Management

Feeding Regulations and Practical Nutrition

One critical legal point: feeding catering waste or kitchen scraps to pigs has been illegal in the UK since 2001. This includes your own household waste. The ban followed the foot-and-mouth outbreak linked to contaminated food waste. Penalties include unlimited fines and prosecution.

You must feed commercial pig feed or specific allowed materials (vegetables grown on your holding, fruit, some dairy products under restrictions). I use a grower pellet (16-18% protein) costing approximately £15-18 per 20kg bag.

Feed conversion ratios (FCR): This technical measure indicates efficiency – how many kilograms of feed produce one kilogram of liveweight gain. Modern commercial pigs achieve 2.5:1, whilst traditional breeds typically run 3.5-4:1. I’ve found my Gloucester Old Spots require approximately 3.8kg feed per 1kg gain.

To raise two weaners (30kg) to pork weight (70kg):

• 40kg gain per pig required = 80kg total
• At 3.8:1 FCR = 304kg feed needed
• At £0.80/kg = approximately £240 feed cost
• Plus bedding straw (£5-6 per bale, 10-15 bales) = £60-90
• Total variable costs: £300-330 for two pigs

This excludes abattoir costs (£60-80 per pig), butchery (£40-60 per pig), and fixed costs like housing.

Water Requirements and Systems

Pigs drink substantial quantities – a finishing pig consumes 6-8 litres daily, more in hot weather. I use old Belfast sinks positioned on timber frames, which they can’t tip over easily. Automatic drinkers (bowls or nipples) work well but can freeze in winter or fail mechanically.

My recommendation: Provide water in two locations so pigs aren’t without if one system fails. Check twice daily – dehydration affects health rapidly and reduces feed conversion efficiency.

Health Management and Veterinary Requirements

Finding a Pig-Experienced Veterinarian

Before acquiring pigs, identify a veterinary practice with pig experience. Many companion animal vets lack pig expertise. I use a farm animal practice covering Herefordshire that regularly sees pig cases – crucial when I needed urgent advice about suspected erysipelas symptoms.

You should establish a veterinary health plan covering:

• Routine worming protocols (typically every 4-6 months with ivermectin or similar anthelmintics)
• External parasite control (lice and mange mites)
• Vaccination schedules if breeding (erysipelas, parvovirus, E.coli)
• Emergency contact arrangements

Common Health Issues I’ve Encountered

After several years keeping pigs, the most frequent issues I’ve managed include:

Sunburn: Pale-skinned pigs need shade or sunblock (yes, really – I use children’s factor 50 on ears and backs in summer). One of my Saddlebacks required veterinary treatment for severe shoulder sunburn after inadequate shade provision.

Respiratory disease: Dusty environments and poor ventilation contribute to coughing and laboured breathing. Straw bedding produces less dust than hay or shavings.

Lameness: Overgrown trotters or foot injuries require attention. I check feet monthly and trim when necessary (or call my vet for difficult cases).

Internal parasites: Worming with prescription-only medicines (POM-VPS category) requires veterinary prescription or supply from a registered animal medicines retailer. I worm incoming weaners immediately and again 8 weeks later.

Slaughter Arrangements and Meat Processing

Licensed Abattoir Requirements

You cannot slaughter pigs on your holding for human consumption (except under very specific personal consumption exemptions with complex requirements). You must transport pigs to a licensed abattoir.

I use a small local abattoir in Herefordshire (30-minute transport time), booking 4-6 weeks in advance. The process involves:

• Completing a Food Chain Information (FCI) document declaring veterinary medicine usage and health history
• Loading pigs into suitable livestock transport (I use a borrowed trailer with pig boards)
• Delivery to abattoir on booked date
• Collection of carcasses 24-48 hours later (after chilling)

Costs at my local facility:

• Slaughter: £40-45 per pig
• Meat hygiene inspection: £15-20 per pig
• Butchery into standard cuts: £40-60 per pig
• Total: £95-125 per pig

Two finishing pigs yielding 55-60kg deadweight each provide approximately 90-100kg of meat (allowing for bone and trim). This equates to £4-6 per kilogram including all costs from weaner purchase through processing – competitive with premium supermarket pork and dramatically better quality.

Meat Quality and Storage

Home-raised pork shows remarkable differences from commercial products: deeper colour, better marbling, superior flavour. Traditional breeds like Berkshires and Tamworths produce darker meat with higher intramuscular fat content than modern commercial hybrids.

You’ll need substantial freezer capacity – a chest freezer (200-300 litres) accommodates meat from two pigs. I portion and vacuum-pack everything for 6-12 month storage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I keep just one pig?

Whilst legally permissible, I strongly advise against keeping single pigs. They’re highly social animals that become stressed alone, often exhibiting stereotypical behaviours like excessive rooting or aggression. Two pigs represent minimal additional work compared to one, with significantly improved welfare outcomes.

How much does it cost to start keeping pigs?

Initial setup costs (housing, fencing, feeders, waterers) range from £600-1,200 depending on whether you purchase new or second-hand equipment. Two weaner pigs cost £60-100 each. Total first-year costs including feed, bedding, and slaughter approximate £1,200-1,600 for two pigs raised to pork weight, yielding 90-100kg premium quality meat.

What happens if my pigs escape?

You’re legally liable for escaped pigs and any damage they cause. I’ve recovered escaped pigs twice – once from a neighbouring field, once from a road verge. Contact your local authority immediately, inform affected neighbours, and carry pig boards and feed to encourage return. Review fencing before returning pigs to identify breach points.

Do I need planning permission to keep pigs?

Domestic-scale pig keeping (2-4 pigs for personal consumption) typically doesn’t require planning permission in agricultural or rural residential zones. However, you may need permission if your property sits within residential curtilage or conservation areas. Check with your local planning authority before investing in infrastructure. Caravans and mobile field shelters usually fall under permitted development rights.

Which pig breed is best for beginners?

I recommend traditional British breeds for small-scale keeping: Gloucester Old Spots, Saddlebacks, Tamworths, and Berkshires. These breeds show excellent temperament, foraging ability, and meat quality. They grow more slowly than commercial hybrids (6-7 months to pork weight versus 4-5 months) but handle outdoor systems better and produce superior eating quality. Avoid aggressive breeds like some Large Black strains without experienced guidance.

My Definitive Recommendations for New Pig Keepers

After managing pigs through multiple batches, unexpected challenges, and learning experiences, here are my core recommendations:

1. Register your holding before acquiring pigs. The CPH number process takes 2-3 weeks minimum. Don’t rely on sellers to wait.
2. Invest properly in fencing from the start. Inadequate fencing leads to escapes, neighbourly disputes, and injured pigs. Budget £400-500 for robust pig netting with electric outrigger on 0.5 acres.
3. Start with two finishing weaners, not breeding stock. Raising purchased weaners teaches fundamentals without the complexity of breeding, farrowing, and rearing litters.
4. Establish veterinary and abattoir relationships early. Don’t wait until you need emergency services or discover your nearest abattoir is booked for three months.
5. Allocate more time than you expect. Daily checks take 20-30 minutes. Mucking out requires 2-3 hours weekly. Pigs are not a “set and forget” livestock option.
6. Join a local pig keeping group. I’ve found the practical knowledge from experienced keepers invaluable – far more useful than generic online advice.
7. Budget realistically including slaughter and processing costs. Many beginners focus on weaner prices and feed costs but overlook the £100+ per pig in finishing expenses.
8. Prepare for meat volume. Two finished pigs produce more pork than most families consume in a year. Have a plan for surplus (friends, family, or multiple households sharing costs and meat).

Keeping pigs combines rewarding animal husbandry with practical challenges and regulatory compliance. The meat quality makes the effort worthwhile – I’ve never regretted starting pig keeping, despite the occasional 6am phone call about escaped pigs. With proper preparation, appropriate infrastructure, and realistic expectations, even beginners with limited space can successfully raise pigs for high-quality, ethical pork production on British smallholdings.

Author: Jack Bennett

Jack writes about practical farming, smallholding, and the realities of producing food in the British countryside. Having spent years around livestock, growers, and rural businesses, his articles focus on the honest side of agriculture. From keeping animals and growing crops to understanding the challenges farmers face, Jack’s work is grounded in real world knowledge and respect for the people who produce our food