Our Favorite Fruit – How to grow Figs

The beauty of figs is that they’re remarkably forgiving once established. Unlike many fruit trees that demand precise care and constant attention, figs will reward you with abundant crops even if you’re not a particularly experienced gardener. They’re also beautiful architectural plants, with their large, distinctive leaves adding real character to any garden space. Whether you’re working with a small urban courtyard or a larger plot in the countryside, there’s almost certainly a way to incorporate a fig tree into your growing plans. Lets look at how to grow figs & look after fig trees.

What makes figs particularly appealing for British growers is their ability to produce two crops per year in warmer microclimates, though realistically most of us will focus on the main autumn crop. I’ve found that even in less-than-ideal conditions, a well-positioned fig will give you enough fruit to make the effort worthwhile. The key is understanding how to work with the plant’s natural habits rather than fighting against them. If you are enjoying this content then you may like our guide about developing food from seed to harvest: growing fennel in your garden.

How to Grow Figs

Getting started with figs doesn’t require a massive investment or specialist equipment, but having the right materials from the outset will make your life considerably easier. Here’s what I’d recommend gathering before you begin.

Essential Materials and Tools

For planting and ongoing care, you’ll need a good quality spade for digging, particularly if you’re creating a root restriction pit (more on that later). A hand trowel is useful for smaller adjustments and top-dressing, whilst a pair of sharp secateurs is absolutely essential for pruning. I use bypass secateurs rather than anvil types, as they give cleaner cuts that heal better.

For the planting medium, you’ll want a mix of good garden soil, well-rotted compost or manure, and some horticultural grit for drainage. If you’re planting in a container, invest in a decent-sized pot, at least 45cm in diameter, with proper drainage holes. Terracotta works brilliantly as it allows the roots to breathe, though it can be heavy. I’ve also had success with large plastic containers, which are lighter and retain moisture better during dry spells. You might also find the complete guide to growing brilliant tayberries helpful.

Choosing Your Fig Variety

Variety selection is crucial for British conditions. ‘Brown Turkey’ is the most reliable performer across most of the country, and it’s the one I started with. It’s hardy, productive, and the figs have a lovely rich flavour. ‘White Marseilles’ is another excellent choice, particularly for cooler areas, producing pale green fruits with sweet flesh.

For those in warmer southern regions or with a sheltered spot, ‘Rouge de Bordeaux’ produces smaller but intensely flavoured figs. I’ve seen this variety doing particularly well in walled gardens around Kent and Sussex. ‘Brunswick’ is worth considering if you’re further north, as it’s one of the hardiest varieties available. You can source young plants from most garden centres during spring, or order from specialist fruit nurseries.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Selecting the Perfect Spot

Location is genuinely critical with figs. They need a warm, sheltered position with plenty of sun, ideally south or south-west facing. I’ve found that planting against a wall is particularly effective, as the structure absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back at night, extending the growing season and helping fruits ripen properly.

In my experience visiting gardens around Hampshire and Dorset, the best fig trees are almost always positioned where they get maximum sun exposure but protection from cold winds. If you’re in a cooler part of the country, perhaps Yorkshire or the Midlands, choosing a spot with a favourable microclimate becomes even more important. Look for areas that seem to stay a bit warmer, perhaps near south-facing brick walls or in sheltered courtyards.

Figs will tolerate partial shade, but fruiting will be significantly reduced. I made the mistake of planting one in a spot that got afternoon shade, and whilst the tree grew vigorously, fruit production was disappointing. After relocating it to a sunnier position, the difference was remarkable.

Preparing the Planting Area

This step is where many growers either set themselves up for success or create ongoing problems. Figs have a tendency to produce excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit if their roots aren’t restricted. The traditional method involves creating a planting pit lined with paving slabs or bricks to contain the root system.

Dig a hole roughly 60cm square and 60cm deep. Line the sides with paving slabs, bricks, or even thick wooden planks. Leave the bottom open but fill it with about 30cm of broken bricks or rubble, which provides drainage whilst still restricting downward root growth. This forces the tree to focus energy on fruiting rather than endless vegetative growth.

Fill the restricted area with a mixture of your excavated soil, plenty of well-rotted compost, and some grit for drainage. Figs aren’t particularly fussy about soil pH, but they do need good drainage. Heavy clay soils need amending with lots of organic matter and grit. If your soil is truly awful, container growing might be a better option.

Planting Your Fig Tree

The best time for planting is spring, once the risk of hard frosts has passed, though container-grown plants can technically go in any time during the growing season. Remove your fig from its pot and gently tease out any circling roots. Position it in your prepared hole so that it sits at the same depth it was in the container, perhaps just slightly deeper.

Backfill around the roots, firming the soil as you go to eliminate air pockets. I use my heel to gently firm rather than stamping heavily, which can compact the soil too much. Water thoroughly after planting, giving it a proper soaking rather than a light sprinkle. Apply a layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few centimetres away from the trunk itself to prevent rot.

If you’re planting against a wall, position the tree about 20-25cm away from the base. This gives the roots room to spread and ensures the tree doesn’t suffer from the dry soil conditions that often occur right at the base of walls.

Training and Initial Pruning

Young fig trees benefit from formative pruning to create a good shape. I aim for an open, fan-shaped structure when growing against a wall, or a goblet shape for free-standing trees. In the first year after planting, I focus on establishing the basic framework of branches rather than worrying about fruit production.

Remove any branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, and cut back the main stems by about half to encourage branching. This might seem drastic, but it creates a much better structure for future years. Figs fruit on the previous year’s growth, so understanding this habit helps you prune more effectively.

During the growing season, pinch out the tips of new shoots once they’ve produced five or six leaves. This encourages the plant to produce embryonic figs rather than just leafy growth. You’ll see tiny figs forming in the leaf axils by late summer, and these will be next year’s crop.

Ongoing Care Through the Seasons

Figs are relatively low-maintenance once established, but they do appreciate some attention. Watering is crucial during the growing season, particularly for container-grown plants. I water deeply but infrequently, allowing the top few centimetres of soil to dry out between waterings. This encourages deeper root growth and healthier plants.

Feed your fig tree in spring with a balanced fertiliser, then switch to a high-potassium feed (similar to tomato food) once fruits begin to form. This supports fruit development and ripening. I’ve found that overdoing nitrogen-rich feeds encourages too much leafy growth, so restraint is sensible.

In winter, particularly in colder regions, protection becomes important. I wrap the branches of my wall-trained fig with horticultural fleece during hard frosts, which protects those embryonic figs that will become next year’s crop. Container-grown figs can be moved into an unheated greenhouse or against a sheltered wall for winter protection.

Harvesting Your Figs

This is the rewarding bit. Figs are ready when they’re soft to the touch, hanging downwards, and sometimes showing small splits in the skin. The colour deepens depending on variety, and there’s often a slight stickiness at the base. Don’t pick them too early, as figs don’t ripen further once harvested.

I check my trees every couple of days during the harvest period, which typically runs from late August through September in southern areas, potentially into early October in warmer spots. Each fig ripens individually rather than all at once, so you’ll be picking over several weeks.

Wear gloves when harvesting, as the milky sap can irritate skin. Simply twist the fruit gently, and it should come away easily if it’s ready. Any hard green figs larger than a pea should be removed in autumn, as they won’t survive winter and will just drain the tree’s energy.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overwatering and Poor Drainage

I’ve seen more figs struggle with waterlogged roots than almost any other problem. Whilst figs need consistent moisture during the growing season, they absolutely cannot tolerate sitting in soggy soil. This is particularly common with container-grown specimens where drainage holes become blocked or saucers collect water.

Check that containers drain freely, and never let pots sit in water for extended periods. In the ground, if you notice yellowing leaves and poor growth despite feeding, waterlogging might be the culprit. The solution is improving drainage before planting or, if it’s too late, relocating to a better-drained spot.

Insufficient Root Restriction

The temptation is to give your fig tree plenty of room to spread, thinking this will create a healthier plant. The opposite is true. I visited a community garden in Bristol where an unrestricted fig had grown into a massive tree with beautiful foliage but produced almost no fruit. Root restriction is genuinely important for fruiting.

If you’ve already planted without root restriction and are getting lots of growth but little fruit, you can remedy this by pruning the roots. Dig a trench around the tree about 45cm from the trunk, severing the outer roots. This isn’t ideal but can help redirect the tree’s energy towards fruiting.

Pruning at the Wrong Time

Figs shouldn’t be pruned during winter when they’re dormant, as this can lead to dieback and exposes them to frost damage. The main pruning should happen in early spring, just as growth begins, or during summer when the tree is actively growing. I’ve learnt this the hard way after losing several branches to frost damage following an ill-timed winter pruning session.

Another common error is removing too much growth in an attempt to keep the tree compact. Whilst figs do need pruning, they fruit on one-year-old wood, so overzealous cutting means sacrificing your harvest. Be selective rather than heavy-handed.

Expert Tips

Maximising Fruit Production

One technique I’ve found particularly effective is the careful management of those embryonic figs that form in autumn. These are the tiny, pea-sized fruits that appear in late summer. They’ll overwinter on the tree and ripen the following summer, forming your main crop. Protect them during winter with fleece or bracken if you’re in a colder area.

Remove any larger green figs in autumn, as these won’t make it through winter. This focuses the tree’s energy on the embryonic fruits and next year’s growth. In warmer microclimates, particularly in sheltered London gardens or along the south coast, you might get a second crop from figs that form and ripen in the same season, but this is a bonus rather than something to rely on.

Using Walls and Structures Effectively

The warmth retention of walls is genuinely significant. I’ve measured temperature differences of several degrees between wall-trained figs and free-standing ones, which translates directly into better fruit production and ripening. Dark-coloured walls work best, as they absorb more heat.

If you’re training against a wall, install horizontal wires at 30cm intervals. Tie in branches using soft string or specialist plant ties, creating a fan shape. This maximises sun exposure to the fruits and makes harvesting easier. I’ve seen beautiful examples of this approach in the walled gardens at various National Trust properties across the South East.

Container Growing Advantages

Whilst in-ground planting is traditional, containers offer real benefits. They provide natural root restriction without needing to dig a pit, they’re moveable (helpful for winter protection), and they allow people with limited space or poor soil to grow figs successfully.

The key is using a large enough container and being diligent about watering. I use a 60cm pot for my container fig, which gives enough root room whilst maintaining restriction. Top-dress annually with fresh compost, and plan to repot every three to four years, root-pruning at the same time to maintain the tree’s size.

Dealing with Birds and Wasps

As figs ripen, they attract attention from birds and wasps, which can damage fruit just as it reaches perfection. I’ve tried various deterrents, and the most effective approach is netting individual fruits with small organza bags once they start to swell. This sounds fiddly, but it’s actually quick and protects your harvest effectively.

For larger trees where individual fruit protection isn’t practical, try positioning bird-scaring devices nearby or draping netting over the entire tree. The netting needs to be properly secured, as birds will find any gaps. Some growers I’ve spoken to in the home counties swear by old CDs hung near the tree, which apparently deter birds through reflected light.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can figs survive British winters?

Yes, established fig trees are surprisingly hardy and can tolerate temperatures down to around minus 10 degrees Celsius. The main consideration isn’t the tree itself but protecting those embryonic fruits that will become next year’s crop. In colder regions, particularly the Midlands northwards, wrapping the branches with fleece during hard frosts helps protect the developing figs. Container-grown trees can be moved to sheltered spots for extra protection. Hardy varieties like ‘Brown Turkey’ and ‘Brunswick’ cope best with British winters, whilst more tender varieties might struggle in exposed northern gardens.

How long until a fig tree produces fruit?

A young fig tree will typically start producing fruit within two to three years of planting, though you might get a few fruits even in the first year. However, meaningful crops usually begin from year three onwards, building up as the tree matures. Container-grown figs often fruit slightly earlier than in-ground trees because the root restriction encourages fruiting. By year five, a well-cared-for fig should be producing a decent harvest. I’ve found that patience in the early years is rewarded with increasingly abundant crops as the tree establishes itself.

Do I need more than one fig tree for pollination?

No, figs are self-fertile and don’t require cross-pollination. A single tree will produce fruit perfectly well on its own. In fact, the varieties grown in Britain typically produce fruit through a process called parthenocarpy, which means the fruits develop without pollination. This is different from how figs grow in Mediterranean countries, where they rely on a specific wasp for pollination. This wasp doesn’t exist in Britain, which is why we grow particular varieties that don’t need it.

Why are my figs dropping before ripening?

Fruit drop usually indicates stress, most commonly from inconsistent watering. Figs need steady moisture during the growing season, and if they dry out then get flooded, they’ll often drop fruit. Container-grown figs are particularly susceptible to this. Other causes include nutrient deficiency (particularly potassium during fruiting), root disturbance, or sometimes just natural thinning when the tree has set more fruit than it can support. Maintaining consistent care, particularly with watering and feeding during the growing season, should reduce dropping significantly.

Can I grow figs from cuttings?

Absolutely, and it’s actually quite straightforward. Take hardwood cuttings in late winter, around 20-25cm long, from healthy one-year-old wood. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it (though it’s not essential), and insert into pots filled with a gritty compost mix. Keep them in a sheltered spot, and they should root within a few months. I’ve propagated several figs this way, and the success rate is generally good. This is an excellent way to share your tree with friends or create additional plants for different garden positions.

What should I do with unripe figs at the end of season?

Any figs larger than a pea that haven’t ripened by late autumn should be removed. These won’t survive winter and will just waste the tree’s energy. The tiny embryonic figs (smaller than a pea) should be left, as these will overwinter and form next year’s main crop. I typically do this clean-up in November, removing all the larger green figs whilst being careful not to damage the tiny ones. Some people try ripening larger green figs indoors, but I’ve never had much success with this, as figs don’t ripen well once picked.

Wrapping Up Your Fig-Growing Journey

Growing figs in British gardens is genuinely achievable and brings real satisfaction. These beautiful trees offer architectural interest throughout the growing season, and the reward of sun-warmed, perfectly ripe figs picked from your own tree is hard to beat. The flavour of a home-grown fig, eaten within minutes of picking, is completely different from anything you’ll find in shops.

The key points to remember are providing a warm, sheltered position with good sun exposure, restricting the roots to encourage fruiting, and protecting those embryonic fruits through winter. Get these fundamentals right, and you’ll be well on your way to successful fig growing regardless of where in the country you’re gardening.

Start with a reliable variety like ‘Brown Turkey’, be patient during the establishment phase, and don’t be afraid to experiment with training methods and positions. Every garden has its own microclimate, and you’ll learn what works best for your particular situation through observation and experience. The beauty of figs is that they’re forgiving plants that will reward your efforts with minimal fuss once you understand their basic needs.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.