How to Grow Kale All Year-Round

What makes kale particularly brilliant for British growers is its extended harvest period. A single plant can provide pickings for months, and with successive sowings, you’ll have fresh leaves from June through to April. I’ve found that understanding the right timing and variety selection makes the difference between a modest crop and baskets overflowing with nutritious greens all winter long. Lets look at how to grow kale.

If you are enjoying our conent then you might like our guide on growing perfect swedes every time.

How to Grow Kale

Getting your kale growing doesn’t require expensive equipment or specialist knowledge. I’ve assembled everything needed for successful kale cultivation, from seeds to final harvest, and most items you’ll already have tucked away in your shed.

Seeds and Plants

You’ll want to choose varieties suited to British conditions. Curly kales like ‘Winterbor’ and ‘Redbor’ handle our winters brilliantly, whilst Tuscan or cavolo nero types offer that distinctive dark, textured foliage. I prefer starting from seed as it’s economical and gives you control over timing, but plug plants from garden centres work well if you’re after a quicker start.

Consider buying organic or Soil Association certified seeds if you’re planning an organic plot. The germination rates tend to be reliable, and you’ll know exactly what’s gone into producing them. I usually purchase enough seed for three sowings throughout the season, which costs less than a couple of supermarket kale bags yet provides harvests for months. If you are a keen grower you might also find your complete turnip growing guide helpful.

Growing Medium and Location

Kale tolerates most soil types but thrives in firm, well-drained ground with plenty of organic matter. You’ll need good quality compost for seed starting, then either prepared garden beds or large containers (minimum 30cm diameter) for growing on. I’ve had excellent results in raised beds filled with a mixture of topsoil, well-rotted manure, and garden compost.

The location should offer full sun or partial shade. Whilst kale grows faster in sunnier spots, I’ve successfully grown decent crops in areas that receive just four hours of direct light. This flexibility makes kale perfect for those awkward garden corners that don’t suit sun-loving crops like tomatoes or peppers.

Essential Tools and Materials

You’ll need basic hand tools: a trowel, garden fork, and watering can with a rose attachment. Netting or fleece becomes essential for protecting young plants from pigeons and cabbage white butterflies, which can decimate a crop faster than you’d believe possible. I use bamboo canes and garden fleece, creating simple tunnel structures that keep pests out whilst allowing rain and air through.

A nitrogen-rich fertiliser helps, particularly for spring and summer sowings. I prefer organic options like blood, fish and bone or homemade comfrey feed. Mulching materials such as straw or grass clippings conserve moisture and suppress weeds, saving considerable time during dry spells.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Starting Seeds Indoors

I start my kale seeds indoors from March onwards, giving them a protected start before the growing season properly begins. Fill modular trays or small pots with seed compost, firm gently, and sow two seeds per module about 1cm deep. Water carefully using a fine rose to avoid disturbing the seeds.

Place trays somewhere bright and cool, around 15-18°C. A windowsill works perfectly, though I’ve used an unheated greenhouse with good success. Germination typically occurs within seven to ten days. Once seedlings develop their first true leaves (the second set that appears), thin to one plant per module by snipping the weaker seedling at soil level rather than pulling it out.

Keep the compost moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering causes more seedling failures than almost anything else in my experience. If seedlings start stretching towards light, rotate trays daily or move them somewhere brighter to encourage sturdy, compact growth.

Direct Sowing Outdoors

From April through July, you can sow kale directly where it’ll grow. This method works brilliantly and saves the transplanting step entirely. Prepare your bed by removing weeds, raking to a fine tilth, and firming the soil by walking over it with your weight on your heels. Kale needs firm soil, unlike root vegetables that prefer loose ground.

Create shallow drills about 1.5cm deep and 45cm apart. Sow seeds thinly along each drill, aiming for one seed every few centimetres. Cover lightly with soil and water well. I mark each row with a label showing variety and sowing date, which proves invaluable when you’re growing multiple batches.

Thin seedlings progressively as they grow. When they’re about 5cm tall, thin to 15cm apart. A few weeks later, thin again to final spacings of 45cm between plants. Don’t waste these thinnings, the small leaves make excellent salad additions with a mild, peppery flavour.

Transplanting and Spacing

Whether started indoors or purchased as plugs, transplant kale when plants have at least four true leaves and are roughly 10-15cm tall. Water modules thoroughly an hour before transplanting to reduce root disturbance and transplant shock.

Dig holes 45cm apart in rows 60cm apart. This spacing might seem excessive when you’re planting tiny seedlings, but mature kale plants become substantial. I’ve made the mistake of closer spacing, and whilst you get more plants initially, they compete for light and nutrients, resulting in smaller, less productive specimens.

Plant firmly at the same depth they were growing in their modules. Press soil around the rootball with your knuckles, ensuring good contact. Water each plant individually, giving them a proper soaking. In my allotment in Norfolk, I always transplant on overcast days or during evening to minimise stress from hot sun.

Protection and Maintenance

Immediately after transplanting, cover plants with netting or fleece. Pigeons adore young brassicas and will strip plants to bare stalks overnight. Cabbage white butterflies lay eggs that hatch into voracious caterpillars, so protection isn’t optional, it’s essential. I create simple hoops from plastic water pipe or wire, draping fine mesh netting over them and securing edges with stones or pegs.

Check plants regularly for pests despite netting. Caterpillars sometimes slip through, and aphids cluster on growing tips during warm weather. I remove caterpillars by hand and wash aphids off with a strong water jet. Inspect leaf undersides where pests often hide.

Water during dry spells, particularly whilst plants establish and during summer. Kale tolerates drought better than many vegetables, but consistent moisture produces sweeter, more tender leaves. I aim for deep watering once or twice weekly rather than frequent shallow drinks, encouraging roots to grow deeper into the soil.

Feeding and Supporting Growth

Kale benefits from feeding, particularly on lighter soils or in containers. I apply a nitrogen-rich feed monthly from June through September, switching to a balanced fertiliser later to avoid producing soft growth vulnerable to frost damage. Liquid comfrey or nettle feed works brilliantly and costs nothing if you make your own.

As plants grow taller, particularly winter varieties that can reach 90cm or more, they sometimes need staking in exposed positions. I’ve had plants blown horizontal during autumn gales in exposed coastal gardens. A single bamboo cane pushed in beside the main stem with a loose tie prevents this problem.

Remove yellowing lower leaves regularly. This improves air circulation, reduces disease risk, and keeps plants looking tidy. These outer leaves often show some pest damage too, so removing them concentrates the plant’s energy on producing fresh, unblemished growth higher up.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting in Loose or Freshly Manured Soil

I learned this lesson the hard way during my first year of growing brassicas. Kale needs firm soil to develop strong root systems and stand upright. Loose, fluffy soil that’s perfect for carrots creates weak, floppy kale plants prone to wind rock and poor anchorage.

Similarly, avoid freshly manured ground. Whilst kale appreciates fertility, fresh manure causes lush, soft growth attractive to aphids and susceptible to frost damage. If you’ve added manure, let it break down for several months before planting kale. I prepare kale beds in autumn, incorporating well-rotted compost or manure, then leaving them over winter to settle and firm up naturally.

Inadequate Pest Protection

The single biggest cause of kale failure in British gardens is pest damage. I’ve watched fellow allotment holders plant beautiful kale seedlings only to find them reduced to skeletal stems within days. Pigeons are relentless, and cabbage white caterpillars can demolish entire plants in under a week.

Don’t rely on companion planting, deterrent sprays, or wishful thinking. Physical barriers work, everything else is supplementary at best. I keep plants netted from transplanting through to when they’re well established and substantial enough to tolerate some nibbling. Even then, I check regularly for caterpillars and remove them manually.

Overcrowding Plants

It’s tempting to squeeze in extra plants, particularly when seedlings look tiny in spring. Resist this urge completely. Overcrowded kale grows tall and spindly as plants compete for light, produces smaller leaves, and creates humid microclimates where fungal diseases thrive.

I maintain 45cm spacing religiously now, even though it feels wasteful initially. The difference in plant size and harvest quantity is remarkable. Well-spaced plants develop into bushy specimens with thick stems and abundant leaves, whilst crowded plants remain stunted and disappointing.

Neglecting Water During Establishment

Mature kale tolerates dry conditions admirably, but young transplants need consistent moisture whilst establishing root systems. I’ve lost plants to drought stress during hot May and June periods when I assumed they’d manage with rainfall alone.

Water transplants daily for the first week, then every other day for another fortnight, assuming no significant rain. Once established, reduce watering frequency but increase volume, encouraging deep root development. Container-grown kale needs more frequent attention throughout its life as pots dry out faster than open ground.

Expert Tips

Variety Selection for Extended Harvests

Growing multiple varieties extends your harvest season and provides different flavours and textures. I grow curly types like ‘Dwarf Green Curled’ for winter hardiness and classic appearance, cavolo nero for its sweet, tender leaves that excel in Italian dishes, and ‘Red Russian’ for beautiful purple-veined foliage that looks ornamental whilst tasting delicious.

Sow early varieties in spring for summer picking, then main crop types in May and June for autumn and winter harvests. Late sowings in July and August provide young, tender leaves through winter and spring. This succession approach means I’m never without fresh kale from June through April, with only May as a gap month.

Harvesting Technique for Maximum Yield

How you harvest dramatically affects total yield from each plant. Always pick from the bottom upwards, taking outer leaves whilst leaving the growing crown intact. I remove four to six leaves per plant during each harvest, allowing the crown to continue producing new growth.

Harvest in the morning after dew has dried but before midday heat. Leaves stay fresher and crisper. I’ve found that regular picking every seven to ten days encourages plants to produce more prolifically than if you strip them heavily then leave them for weeks.

After hard frosts, wait until leaves have thawed before harvesting. Picking frozen leaves damages cell structure, causing them to collapse into unappetising mush when thawed. I learned this during a cold January morning, eagerly gathering frost-covered leaves that turned to slime within hours.

Overwintering Strategies

Winter kale provides harvests when little else grows, but plants need appropriate care. I stop feeding after September to avoid encouraging soft growth. Mulch around plants with straw or compost in November, protecting roots from hard freezes whilst suppressing winter weeds.

Remove damaged or diseased leaves promptly. Winter weather stressed plants are more vulnerable to fungal infections, and good hygiene prevents problems spreading. I check plants weekly through winter, removing any yellowing or spotted foliage.

In very exposed gardens or during severe weather, temporary fleece protection helps. I don’t keep plants covered continuously as they’re remarkably hardy, but during prolonged hard freezes below minus ten degrees, a fleece layer prevents excessive damage whilst maintaining air circulation.

Growing Kale in Containers

Container growing works brilliantly for kale if you follow certain principles. Use large pots, minimum 30cm diameter and depth, filled with quality multipurpose compost mixed with controlled-release fertiliser. I add water-retaining gel crystals to containers, reducing watering frequency during summer.

Position containers where they’ll receive morning sun but afternoon shade during summer, or full sun for autumn and winter crops. Container kale needs more frequent feeding than ground-grown plants as nutrients wash through with watering. I use liquid feed weekly from July onwards.

Choose compact varieties for containers. ‘Dwarf Blue Curled’ and ‘Black Magic’ stay relatively small whilst producing generous harvests. I’ve successfully grown three plants in a 60cm diameter container, creating an attractive and productive display on a patio.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant kale in Britain?

You can sow kale from March through August, depending on when you want to harvest. For summer crops, sow indoors in March and April, transplanting in May. For autumn and winter harvests, which I find most rewarding, sow outdoors from May through July. Late sowings in August provide young leaves through winter and spring. The versatility of kale means you can essentially grow it year-round with proper planning and variety selection.

How long does kale take to grow from seed to harvest?

Kale typically takes 50 to 80 days from sowing to first harvest, though this varies by variety and growing conditions. You can begin picking baby leaves earlier, around 30 to 40 days, for salads. I’ve found spring sowings grow faster due to warmer temperatures and longer days, whilst autumn crops develop more slowly but produce sweeter leaves. Once harvesting begins, a single plant continues producing for months if you pick regularly and leave the crown intact.

Does kale need full sun or will it grow in shade?

Kale tolerates partial shade better than most vegetables, making it valuable for gardens with limited sunny areas. Whilst full sun produces the fastest growth and largest plants, I’ve successfully grown kale in positions receiving just four to five hours of direct sunlight. Plants in shadier spots grow more slowly and tend to be smaller, but leaf quality and flavour remain excellent. Avoid deep shade under trees where roots compete for nutrients and moisture.

Why are my kale leaves full of holes and how do I stop it?

Holes in kale leaves almost always indicate caterpillar damage from cabbage white butterflies. These pests lay eggs on leaf undersides that hatch into green caterpillars which devour foliage rapidly. The only truly effective solution is covering plants with fine netting or fleece to prevent butterflies accessing them. Check plants regularly and remove any caterpillars by hand. Pigeons also cause damage, pecking chunks from leaves, and require the same netting protection.

Can I grow kale through winter in cold areas?

Absolutely, and winter is when kale truly excels in British gardens. Most varieties tolerate temperatures down to minus ten degrees or lower, and frost actually improves flavour by converting starches to sugars. I grow kale successfully in exposed northern gardens where winter temperatures regularly drop below freezing. Choose hardy varieties like ‘Winterbor’, cavolo nero, or ‘Redbor’ for best winter performance. Mulch around plants in November and ensure they’re well-established before hard frosts arrive for optimal results.

How much kale will one plant produce?

A healthy kale plant produces 500g to 1kg of leaves over its productive life, sometimes more with excellent care and regular harvesting. I typically get 20 to 30 good-sized leaves from each plant across multiple harvests. Five to six plants provide enough for a family of four eating kale weekly through winter. Container plants yield slightly less than ground-grown specimens, but even a balcony container with two plants supplies regular small harvests for months.

What’s the difference between curly kale and cavolo nero?

Curly kale has frilled, tightly curled leaves and grows as an open rosette, whilst cavolo nero (also called Tuscan or black kale) produces long, narrow, deeply textured leaves with a distinctive dark blue-green colour. Curly types are generally hardier and more tolerant of poor conditions, making them reliable for exposed gardens. Cavolo nero offers a sweeter, more refined flavour and tender texture that works brilliantly in Italian dishes. I grow both, using curly kale for robustness and cavolo nero when flavour and appearance matter most.

Conclusion

Growing kale has transformed how I approach vegetable gardening. This reliable, productive brassica provides fresh harvests when most other crops have finished, tolerates our changeable British weather with remarkable resilience, and requires relatively little specialist knowledge or equipment.

Start small if you’re new to growing kale. Half a dozen plants provide ample harvests for experimenting with this versatile vegetable. As your confidence grows, expand sowings to create succession crops that keep you supplied year-round. The satisfaction of harvesting your own kale on a frosty January morning, knowing it’s sweeter and more nutritious than anything available in shops, makes every bit of effort worthwhile.

Remember that kale growing improves with practice. Your first attempts might face pest problems or spacing issues, but each season teaches valuable lessons. I still learn new techniques and discover better varieties regularly. The beauty of kale is its forgiving nature, even imperfect growing produces edible results, and excellent growing creates harvests that’ll change how you think about this underappreciated British vegetable.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.