Making cider connects you to an old British craft that turns surplus apples into something genuinely satisfying to drink. You don’t need a specialist orchard or fancy equipment. What you need is access to apples, a bit of patience, and an understanding of what actually happens when juice ferments. If you’ve got a glut from your own trees or you can source fruit from a local farm or pick your own site, you’re already halfway there.
What You Need
The core ingredients are apples and time. Everything else just makes the process easier or more consistent.
You’ll want around ten to fifteen kilos of apples for a useful first batch. That gives you roughly six to eight litres of juice, depending on the variety and how you press them. Traditional cider apples are high in tannins and acidity, but eating apples work perfectly well. A mix is often better than a single variety. Sharp, sweet, and slightly astringent apples all contribute something different.
For equipment, you need a way to crush the apples and a way to press the pulp. You can hire or borrow a press, or build something simple with a bucket and a car jack. Some people mash apples in a fermentation bucket with a length of timber. It’s not elegant, but it works.
A fermentation vessel comes next. A food-grade plastic bucket with a lid and an airlock does the job. Glass demijohns are fine too, though harder to clean. You’ll also need a siphon tube for racking the cider off the sediment later, and bottles or a pressure barrel for storage once it’s ready.
Yeast is optional. Wild yeasts on the apple skins will ferment the juice without any addition, though the result is less predictable. If you want more control, use a cider yeast or a champagne yeast. Both are widely available and straightforward to use.
Sanitiser matters more than people expect. Everything that touches the juice after pressing needs to be clean. You’re not aiming for sterile, but you do want to avoid competing bacteria that turn cider into vinegar before it ferments properly.
Step-by-Step Guide
Sourcing and Preparing the Apples
If you’re picking apples yourself, aim for fruit that’s ripe but not rotten. A few blemishes don’t matter. Bruises and soft spots are fine as long as there’s no mould. You’re going to crush them anyway.
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Windfalls are traditional cider material, but check them over. Cut out anything brown or musty. Wash the apples if they’re particularly dirty, though a bit of soil won’t ruin anything. Some cider makers rinse them, others don’t bother. I’ve done both and never noticed a meaningful difference.
Leave the apples for a few days after picking if they’re very firm. They’ll soften slightly and release more juice when pressed. Don’t let them sit so long they start fermenting in the bag.
Crushing and Pressing
Crushing breaks the apples down into a pulp called pomace. The finer the crush, the more juice you’ll extract. If you’re using a purpose-built scratter, this takes minutes. If you’re improvising with a bucket and a heavy stick, it takes longer but still works.
Once the apples are crushed, you press the pomace to extract the juice. A proper cider press uses layers of pomace wrapped in cloth, stacked and squeezed. If you don’t have a press, you can wrap the pomace in a clean pillowcase or muslin and squeeze it by hand, though you won’t get as much juice.
The juice that comes out is cloudy and brown. That’s normal. It’ll clear during fermentation.
Fermentation
Pour the fresh juice into your sanitised fermentation vessel. If you’re using a commercial yeast, add it now according to the packet instructions. If you’re relying on wild yeast, just leave the juice alone. Either way, fit the airlock and leave the vessel somewhere cool and stable.
Fermentation starts within a day or two. You’ll see bubbles rising through the juice and activity in the airlock. The temperature matters. Too warm and the fermentation rushes, producing harsh flavours. Too cold and it stalls. Somewhere between twelve and eighteen degrees works well. A garage or unheated room is often ideal.
Primary fermentation takes one to three weeks, depending on temperature and yeast activity. The bubbling slows, then stops. The juice turns from sweet to dry as the yeast consumes the sugars.
Racking and Maturing
Once fermentation settles, the yeast and sediment drop to the bottom. Siphon the cider off into a clean container, leaving the sediment behind. This is called racking, and it stops the cider sitting on dead yeast, which can produce off flavours.
Some people rack twice, waiting a few weeks between each transfer as more sediment falls out. Others rack once and bottle straight away. Both approaches work.
The cider is drinkable at this stage, but it’s better after a few weeks or months of maturation. The sharp edges soften, the flavours settle. If you can wait until Christmas, the difference is worth it.
Bottling or Kegging
If you want a still cider, bottle it now. Use clean glass bottles with screw caps or swing-top closures. If you want a sparkling cider, add a small amount of sugar before bottling. The remaining yeast will ferment the sugar and carbonate the cider in the bottle. This is called bottle conditioning.
Be careful with bottle conditioning. Too much sugar and the bottles can explode. A level teaspoon of sugar per litre is safe. Dissolve it in a little cider, mix it gently into the batch, then bottle immediately.
Store the bottles upright somewhere cool. If you’ve added sugar, leave them for at least two weeks before opening.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The biggest mistake is rushing. Cider takes time. Trying to speed up fermentation by keeping it too warm produces rough, headache-inducing results. Let it ferment at its own pace.
Using rotten apples is another problem. A few bruises are fine, but mouldy fruit introduces bacteria and wild yeasts that create off flavours. Cut out anything questionable.
Not sanitising equipment is a classic error. You don’t need to be obsessive, but a quick rinse with a no-rinse sanitiser takes seconds and prevents problems later.
Bottling too early catches people out. If fermentation hasn’t fully finished and you seal the cider in bottles, pressure builds. Glass bottles can explode. Make sure fermentation is completely done before bottling, or leave a bit of headspace and check the bottles regularly.
Expecting the first batch to taste like commercial cider leads to disappointment. Homemade cider is drier, more tannic, and often less sweet. That’s not a fault. It’s just different.
Tips and Variations
Blending apple varieties makes more interesting cider than using a single type. Sharp cookers like Bramleys add acidity. Sweet eaters contribute sugar. A few crab apples add tannin and complexity. If you’re buying or picking apples from local farms, ask what they recommend. Some growers will let you mix and match from windfalls or seconds.
Adding a small amount of pear juice creates a hybrid called pider or pyder. It’s gentler and slightly floral. Some people prefer it.
If you want a sweeter cider, you can halt fermentation early by chilling the cider and racking it off the yeast before all the sugar is consumed. This is tricky to get right without proper equipment. An easier approach is to ferment the cider dry, then sweeten individual glasses with a little apple juice or honey when you serve it.
Oak chips or barrels add depth if you’re making larger batches. You don’t need much. A handful of toasted oak chips in a demijohn for a few weeks is enough.
If your cider turns out too sharp, leave it a few more months. Time softens acidity more effectively than anything you can add.
Some cider makers add a campden tablet to the juice before fermentation to kill off wild yeast and bacteria, then pitch a commercial yeast. This gives more control, but it also strips out some of the character that wild fermentation brings. I’ve done it both ways. Wild fermentation is more interesting, but also more variable.
There’s more where this came from. Browse all our orchard fruit guides, or dip into the rest of our cooking and preserving guides.
If you would rather buy direct, our Cider Near Me page will point you to local producers.
Cooking with the seasons? Our Growers’ Calendar, included with paid Food Lover and Supplier memberships, shows what is being harvested each month, so you always know what is at its best.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make cider from shop-bought apples?
Yes, though it’s more expensive than using surplus fruit from your own trees or sourcing windfalls locally. The variety matters more than where you buy them. Avoid waxed apples if you can, though a quick rinse usually removes most of the coating. A mix of sharp and sweet varieties gives better results than a single type. If you’re paying for apples, it’s worth finding a farm shop or pick your own site where you can choose specific varieties and often get a better price on seconds or damaged fruit.
How long does homemade cider last?
If it’s fully fermented and stored properly, cider lasts for months or even years. The alcohol and acidity act as preservatives. Still cider in sealed bottles keeps for at least a year, often longer. Carbonated cider is similar, though the carbonation can fade over time if the seal isn’t perfect. Once opened, treat it like any other drink and consume it within a few days. If it starts tasting like vinegar, the acetic acid bacteria have taken over. It’s not dangerous, but it’s no longer cider.
Do I need special cider apples?
No. Traditional cider apples like Dabinett or Kingston Black are high in tannins and create a more complex drink, but they’re not essential. Eating apples and cookers both make perfectly good cider. The main difference is that cider apples produce a drink with more body and bitterness, while eating apples give a lighter, fruitier result. Most people making cider at home use whatever apples they have access to, and the results are still satisfying. Blending different types almost always improves the final flavour.
What if my cider tastes like vinegar?
That means acetic acid bacteria got into the juice and started converting the alcohol into acetic acid. It usually happens when the fermentation vessel isn’t sealed properly, allowing air in. Once it’s started, there’s no reversing it. You can use the vinegar in cooking, or tip it out and start again. To prevent it, make sure your airlock is fitted correctly and topped up with water, and avoid leaving the cider exposed to air for long periods. Sanitising your equipment before use also reduces the risk.
Can I make cider without a press?
Yes, though you’ll extract less juice. Some people use a blender or food processor to pulp the apples, then strain the juice through muslin or a fine mesh bag. You can also freeze the apples first, which breaks down the cell walls and releases more juice when they thaw. The juice yield won’t match a proper press, but it’s enough for a small experimental batch. If you’re serious about making cider regularly, borrowing or hiring a press makes more sense than buying one outright unless you’re processing large quantities every year.
How much alcohol does homemade cider contain?
It depends on the sugar content of the apples and how fully the cider ferments. Most homemade cider ends up between four and seven percent alcohol by volume. Sweeter apples and a vigorous fermentation produce higher alcohol levels. If you want to know the exact strength, you can measure the specific gravity of the juice before and after fermentation using a hydrometer. The difference tells you how much sugar was converted into alcohol. For most people, knowing the approximate range is enough.
Is it legal to make cider at home in the UK?
Yes. You can make cider, beer, or wine at home for personal consumption without a licence, as long as you don’t sell it or distil it. There’s no limit on how much you can produce for yourself and your household. If you start giving it away regularly or charging for it, you need to follow different regulations and possibly pay duty. For home use, you’re completely within the law.
If you’ve never made cider before, start with a small batch and see how it goes. The process is forgiving, and even a rough first attempt usually turns into something drinkable. Next time you see apples going spare at a local farm or in your own garden, you’ll know exactly what to do with them.
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Author: Jack Bennett
Jack writes about practical farming, smallholding, and the realities of producing food in the British countryside. Having spent years around livestock, growers, and rural businesses, his articles focus on the honest side of agriculture. From keeping animals and growing crops to understanding the challenges farmers face, Jack’s work is grounded in real world knowledge and respect for the people who produce our food
