From Stone to Harvest: How to Grow Apricots

How to Grow Apricots

Before you start, it’s worth gathering the right materials and understanding what you’re committing to. Apricot trees aren’t hugely demanding once established, but the initial setup makes a real difference to your success rate.

Essential Materials

You’ll need a young apricot tree, ideally bare-rooted for planting between November and March. I’d strongly recommend choosing a tree on a semi-dwarfing rootstock like St Julien A or Pixy, which keeps the tree to a manageable 3-4 metres and makes netting and protection far easier. For varieties, ‘Tomcot’, ‘Flavourcot’ and ‘Moorpark’ have all performed well for me in southern England.

For planting, you’ll need a decent spade, some well-rotted compost or farmyard manure, and a sturdy stake with tree ties. If you’re wall training (which I’d recommend), invest in vine eyes, galvanised wire, and soft garden twine for tying in branches. A fleece or horticultural mesh is essential for frost protection, and you might want some fine netting to keep birds off ripening fruit. You might also find from sets to harvest: your complete onion growing guide helpful.

Site Requirements

The site matters enormously. You need a spot with full sun for at least six hours daily, ideally sheltered from cold easterly winds. A south or southwest-facing wall is brilliant, as it provides warmth, protection, and support for training. The wall absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back at night, creating that warmer microclimate apricots appreciate.

Soil-wise, apricots tolerate most well-drained soils but struggle in heavy clay or waterlogged conditions. They prefer slightly alkaline to neutral pH (around 6.5-7.5). If your soil is acidic, working in some lime before planting helps. Good drainage is absolutely critical because apricots are susceptible to root diseases in wet conditions.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Choosing and Planting Your Tree

Start by selecting a healthy specimen from a reputable nursery. I’ve visited several specialist fruit nurseries in Worcestershire and East Sussex, and they’ll often provide excellent advice on varieties suited to your specific location. Look for a tree with a balanced framework of branches and healthy bark without splits or cankers.

Plant between November and March whilst the tree is dormant. Dig a hole roughly twice the width of the root ball but no deeper than the roots themselves. You want the soil mark on the trunk to sit at ground level. I’ve seen too many trees planted too deep, which encourages rot at the base. Mix some compost into the excavated soil, but don’t overdo it because overly rich soil encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

Position the tree, spread the roots naturally, and backfill with your soil mix, firming gently as you go. Stake the tree on the windward side, driving the stake in at a 45-degree angle to avoid damaging roots. Water thoroughly after planting, even in winter, to settle soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets.

Training and Pruning

This is where many growers struggle, but proper training really does make the difference between a few fruits and a proper harvest. For wall-trained trees, I use a fan shape, which maximises light exposure and makes protection easier. In the first spring after planting, cut the main stem back to about 60cm above ground, just above a healthy bud.

During the growing season, select two strong shoots near the top to form your first fan ribs, tying them to canes at 45-degree angles. Remove any other shoots. The following year, extend these main ribs and add more branches to fill the fan framework. Always prune in spring or summer, never in winter, because apricots are highly susceptible to silver leaf disease and bacterial canker, both of which enter through wounds more readily in cold, wet weather.

Once established, summer pruning (around July) is your main task. Remove any dead, diseased or crossing branches, and cut back side shoots to five or six leaves to encourage fruit bud formation. I’ve found that regular, light pruning works better than heavy annual cuts.

Protecting Blossoms from Frost

Here’s the tricky bit for us Brits. Apricots flower early, often in March or even late February, right when we’re still getting frosts. Those delicate flowers are damaged at about minus 2°C, and you’ll get no fruit from frosted blossoms.

When frost is forecast during flowering time, drape horticultural fleece over the tree in the evening and remove it during the day to allow pollinating insects access. For wall-trained trees, this is straightforward enough. I keep a roll of fleece and some clips handy throughout March and early April. It’s a bit of a faff, checking weather forecasts and nipping out to cover the tree, but it’s absolutely necessary.

In sheltered gardens or against warm walls, you might also consider a semi-permanent frame covered with clear polythene sheeting during flowering. Keep the sides open for ventilation and insect access, closing them only when frost threatens.

Hand Pollination and Fruit Thinning

Whilst apricots are self-fertile, our early spring doesn’t always have many active pollinators about. I’ve taken to hand pollinating with a soft brush, gently dabbing from flower to flower on dry days. It takes maybe ten minutes and definitely improves fruit set.

Once tiny fruits have formed and the natural ‘June drop’ has finished (usually by early July), thin the remaining fruits to about 8cm apart. This seems harsh, but it prevents branches breaking under weight and ensures the fruits you do get are a decent size with good flavour. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way after a branch split under the weight of too many undersized fruits.

Watering and Feeding

Apricots need consistent moisture, particularly whilst fruits are swelling, but they hate waterlogged roots. During dry spells in summer, water deeply once a week rather than little and often, which encourages shallow rooting. A mulch of compost or well-rotted manure in spring helps retain moisture and provides steady nutrients.

I apply a general-purpose organic fertiliser in early spring, then a potash-rich feed (like rock potash or comfrey liquid) in early summer to support fruit development. Don’t overdo nitrogen, which produces masses of soft, disease-prone growth. The goal is steady, moderate growth and good fruit production.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting in Unsuitable Locations

The biggest mistake I see is planting apricots in exposed positions or heavy, poorly drained soil. They simply won’t thrive. If you can’t provide a warm wall, consider growing in a large container that can be moved to shelter or against a building. Container growing also works well for those on heavy clay soils, using a soil-based compost with added grit for drainage.

Another location error is planting in frost pockets where cold air settles. These low-lying areas can be several degrees colder on frosty nights, enough to destroy your crop. If your garden has noticeable cold spots, avoid them.

Winter Pruning

I’ve mentioned this already, but it bears repeating because it’s such a common and serious error. Never prune apricots (or any stone fruit) during the dormant season. The risk of silver leaf and bacterial canker is far too high. These diseases enter through pruning wounds and can kill established trees. Always prune in spring or summer when the tree is in active growth and wounds heal quickly.

Neglecting Disease Prevention

Apricots can suffer from various fungal diseases, particularly in our damp climate. Brown rot affects flowers and fruit, whilst shot hole disease causes distinctive circular leaf spots. I’ve found that good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and promptly removing any infected material makes a huge difference.

Don’t leave fallen leaves or mummified fruit around the base, as these harbour disease spores. A clean, well-mulched root area reduces problems significantly. Some growers apply preventative copper-based fungicide sprays during leaf fall and before bud burst, though I’ve not found this necessary with good hygiene practices.

Expert Tips

Variety Selection for British Conditions

Not all apricot varieties suit our climate. I’ve had excellent results with ‘Tomcot’, which flowers slightly later than many varieties, reducing frost risk. ‘Flavourcot’ is another reliable choice, bred specifically for cooler climates. For wall training, ‘Moorpark’ is a classic British variety that’s been grown here since the 18th century, though it does flower early.

Some nurseries now stock varieties developed in Eastern Europe and North America for similar climates to ours. These are worth exploring if you’re in a particularly challenging location. I met a grower near Harrogate who’s had success with some Canadian varieties that tolerate colder winters and unreliable springs.

Creating a Microclimate

Beyond wall training, think creatively about microclimates. Planting near paving or a brick patio creates reflected heat. Some growers paint walls white to reflect even more light and warmth onto the tree. In my own garden, an apricot planted near the junction of two south-facing walls performs noticeably better than one on a single wall, benefiting from warmth reflected from both surfaces.

Glass or polycarbonate shelters can work well too, creating a lean-to structure over the tree. Keep it well-ventilated to prevent humidity building up, which encourages fungal problems. I’ve seen this approach used brilliantly in several walled gardens across Hampshire and Somerset.

Understanding Rootstocks

The rootstock determines your tree’s ultimate size and vigour. St Julien A produces a medium-sized tree (3-4 metres), whilst Pixy creates a smaller tree (2-3 metres) suitable for containers or very restricted spaces. Brompton rootstock produces a large tree, which I’d only recommend if you have plenty of space and don’t need easy access for netting and protection.

Rootstock also affects how quickly the tree starts fruiting. Pixy tends to fruit within two to three years, whilst Brompton might take five or six. For most gardeners, the earlier cropping and manageable size of dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstocks makes far more sense.

Extending the Season

If you’ve got the space and enthusiasm, planting multiple varieties with different ripening times extends your harvest from July through early September. Early varieties like ‘Aprigold’ ripen in late July, whilst ‘Moorpark’ typically ripens in mid to late August. This spreading of the harvest is more practical than having all your fruit ready simultaneously.

You can also experiment with aspect. I’ve noticed that fruits on the east side of a tree ripen a few days before those on the west side, where they get afternoon sun but less morning warmth. It’s a subtle difference but can be useful for spreading the harvest.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can apricots really grow successfully outdoors in Britain?

Absolutely, though success varies by location and variety. Southern England and milder western regions offer the best conditions, but I know growers in Yorkshire and even southern Scotland who succeed with careful variety selection and wall training. The key is providing warmth, shelter from cold winds, and frost protection during flowering. Wall-trained trees in a sunny, protected spot perform far better than free-standing specimens. Modern varieties bred for cooler climates have made outdoor cultivation much more reliable than it was even twenty years ago.

When do apricots flower and fruit in the British climate?

Apricots typically flower between late February and early April, depending on variety and location. This early flowering is both a blessing and a curse because whilst it means relatively early fruit (July to September), it also puts blossoms at risk from late frosts. Fruits develop through spring and summer, ripening anywhere from mid-July for early varieties to September for later ones. The exact timing shifts by a couple of weeks between Cornwall and Yorkshire, and varies year to year depending on spring temperatures.

What’s the best way to protect apricot blossoms from frost?

Horticultural fleece is your best friend during flowering time. Drape it over the tree on evenings when frost is forecast, securing it loosely so it doesn’t damage flowers. Remove it during the day to allow pollinator access and prevent humidity build-up. For wall-trained trees, you can create a simple frame and attach fleece to it for easier deployment. Some growers use temporary polythene structures, but these need careful ventilation. The effort is worth it because even a light frost can destroy your entire crop for that year.

How long does it take for an apricot tree to produce fruit?

This depends largely on rootstock and growing conditions. Trees on dwarfing rootstocks like Pixy often produce their first fruits within two to three years of planting. Those on more vigorous rootstocks might take four to six years. Don’t expect heavy crops immediately. The first few years typically produce just a handful of fruits as the tree establishes. By year five or six, a well-grown tree should give you several kilos of fruit annually. Wall-trained trees in optimal conditions often crop more reliably than free-standing ones because they benefit from better warmth and protection.

Do I need more than one apricot tree for pollination?

No, apricots are self-fertile, meaning a single tree will produce fruit without a pollination partner. However, because they flower so early when few insects are active, hand pollination can improve fruit set significantly. Use a small, soft paintbrush to transfer pollen between flowers on dry days. This takes just a few minutes but can make a noticeable difference to your crop, particularly in cold springs when bees and other pollinators are scarce.

Why do my apricot fruits split or drop before ripening?

Splitting is usually caused by irregular watering, particularly when heavy rain follows a dry period. The fruit absorbs water rapidly, swelling faster than the skin can accommodate. Consistent watering through summer helps prevent this. Mulching retains soil moisture and reduces fluctuations. Early fruit drop (beyond the natural June drop) can indicate insufficient water, poor pollination, or stress from disease or pests. Some drop is normal and helps the tree balance its crop load. If you’re losing most fruits, check for signs of brown rot, aphids, or water stress, and ensure the tree is adequately fed.

What pests and diseases should I watch for on apricot trees?

Brown rot is probably the most serious fungal disease, causing flowers and fruits to rot and develop fuzzy brown spores. Remove and destroy affected material promptly. Bacterial canker causes oozing lesions on branches and can be fatal if it girdles the trunk. Prune only in dry weather during the growing season to minimise infection risk. Aphids can cluster on new growth, and whilst not usually fatal, they weaken the tree and spread viruses. A strong water spray or organic soap often controls them. Silver leaf disease is another serious concern for stone fruits. It causes a silvery sheen on leaves and internal wood staining. Affected branches must be cut back to healthy wood and destroyed. Good hygiene, proper pruning timing, and adequate feeding keep trees healthy and more resistant to problems.

Moving Forward with Your Apricot Growing

Growing apricots in our climate requires a bit more attention than apples or blackcurrants, but it’s far from impossible. The satisfaction of harvesting your own sun-warmed apricots, with their incomparable flavour and texture, makes the effort worthwhile. I’ve found that once you understand their needs, particularly around frost protection and site selection, they become a reliable and rewarding addition to the garden.

Start with a single well-chosen tree in the best spot you can provide, ideally against a warm wall. Learn its rhythms through a season or two, and you’ll develop an instinct for when to protect, when to water, and when to thin. The learning curve isn’t steep, but there is one, and each season teaches you something new about your specific microclimate and tree.

Don’t be discouraged by occasional crop failures due to late frosts or poor weather during flowering. Even commercial orchards in apricot-growing regions have variable years. The successes more than compensate, and you’ll find that a single productive year yields enough fruit for fresh eating, preserving, and sharing with neighbours who’ll be astonished you’ve grown apricots in Britain at all.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.