How to Grow Coriander

In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything I’ve discovered about growing coriander in British conditions. We’ll cover the specific varieties that work best here, the sowing techniques that actually improve germination rates, and the crucial timing windows that mean the difference between abundant harvests and plants that flower before you’ve picked a single leaf.

How to Grow Coriander

Getting your materials sorted before you start makes the whole process considerably smoother. I’ve refined my coriander growing kit over several seasons, and these are the essentials that consistently deliver results in our climate. For more on this, see our guide on from seed to harvest: your complete mustard greens guide.

Seeds and Varieties

You’ll need coriander seeds, and the variety matters more than you might think. I’ve found that slow-bolting varieties like ‘Leisure’ or ‘Calypso’ are absolutely worth seeking out. Standard coriander seeds from any garden centre will grow, but they tend to bolt (run to flower) within four to six weeks, particularly during our increasingly warm May and June periods. Slow-bolting varieties give you an extra two to three weeks of leaf production, which makes a real difference when you’re harvesting regularly. I usually buy enough seed to make three or four successive sowings, as coriander doesn’t continue producing indefinitely like some perennial herbs.

Growing Medium and Containers

Coriander appreciates well-draining soil or compost. I use a mix of multipurpose peat-free compost with added horticultural grit (about one part grit to four parts compost). This improves drainage, which helps prevent the root rot issues I’ve seen in heavier soils. If you’re growing in containers, choose pots at least 20cm deep. Coriander develops a taproot that doesn’t appreciate shallow containers, and I’ve noticed plants in deeper pots stay productive for longer. For in-ground growing, any reasonably fertile soil works fine, though I always add some compost if the soil is particularly heavy clay.

Additional Equipment

You’ll benefit from having a watering can with a fine rose, some garden fleece or shade netting (depending on the season), and labels if you’re making multiple sowings. A small pair of scissors or herb snips makes harvesting cleaner and easier. If you’re starting seeds indoors, module trays are useful, though not essential. I also keep a soil thermometer handy, as soil temperature genuinely affects germination rates with coriander. PS you might like our article from seed to harvest: my method for growing french beans.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Choosing the Right Time to Sow

Timing is absolutely critical with coriander, and this is where many growers struggle. Coriander is what we call a ‘cool season’ herb. It germinates best when soil temperatures are between 7°C and 20°C, and it grows most happily in the cooler months. I make my first outdoor sowing in late March or early April, depending on where you are in the country. In milder regions like Devon or Sussex, you can sometimes start in mid-March. Further north, I’d wait until mid-April.

The crucial thing I’ve learnt is to avoid sowing during the longest, warmest days. Coriander is photoperiod-sensitive, meaning day length triggers flowering. When you combine long days (June) with warm temperatures, coriander bolts incredibly quickly. I make successive sowings every three weeks from April through to early June, then I stop completely. I start again in late August or early September for autumn crops, which actually grow better than spring ones in many parts of Britain. These autumn-sown plants often survive mild winters in southern areas, providing leaves right through to December.

Preparing Your Sowing Site

Whether you’re sowing in containers or directly in the ground, preparation makes a difference. For container growing, I fill my pots with the compost and grit mix, water it thoroughly, and let it drain. The compost should be moist but not waterlogged when you sow. For in-ground sowing, I choose a spot that gets morning sun but some afternoon shade, particularly for spring sowings. Full sun during our warmest months encourages bolting. I’ve had excellent results growing coriander in the dappled shade beneath raspberry canes or on the north side of taller vegetables.

I rake the soil to create a fine, level surface and remove any large stones or debris. Coriander seeds are quite large and easy to handle, but they germinate more reliably when they have good contact with the soil. I sometimes pre-soak seeds overnight in lukewarm water, which can speed germination by a day or two, though it’s not essential.

Sowing Your Seeds

I sow coriander seeds about 1cm to 1.5cm deep. The traditional method is to sow in drills (shallow trenches), spacing seeds roughly 2cm apart in rows that are 15cm to 20cm apart. However, I’ve moved towards broadcast sowing in blocks, scattering seeds relatively thickly and then thinning later. This gives me denser growth and seems to create a more humid microclimate that the plants appreciate.

If you’re using modules or small pots for starting seeds indoors, sow two or three seeds per module. Coriander doesn’t transplant brilliantly because of that taproot, but if you move seedlings while they’re still small (two to three true leaves) and keep the root ball intact, they settle in reasonably well. I prefer direct sowing outdoors when conditions allow, but modules give you more control in unpredictable spring weather.

After sowing, I cover the seeds with soil or compost and firm gently with the back of a rake or my hand. Water with a fine rose so you don’t dislodge the seeds. If you’re sowing in early spring when the soil is still cool, covering the area with fleece or a cloche for a week or two helps warm the soil and speeds germination.

Caring for Seedlings

Coriander typically germinates in seven to fourteen days, depending on temperature. The seedlings emerge with narrow, divided leaves that look quite different from the mature foliage. This is normal. Once seedlings have developed their first true leaves (the ones that actually look like coriander), I thin them to about 5cm apart for leaf production, or 15cm apart if you want plants to develop fully and produce seeds.

Watering needs to be consistent. I’ve found that irregular watering stresses coriander and triggers early bolting. The soil should stay evenly moist but never soggy. During dry spells in late spring, I water every couple of days. In typical British drizzle, natural rainfall is usually sufficient. I check containers more frequently as they dry out faster than ground soil.

Ongoing Maintenance

Coriander isn’t particularly hungry, but a liquid feed every couple of weeks with a balanced fertiliser keeps plants productive. I use a half-strength solution of general-purpose organic feed. Don’t overdo nitrogen-rich feeds, as this encourages soft, lush growth that’s more prone to bolting. Weeding is important, particularly when plants are young, as coriander doesn’t compete well with aggressive weeds.

Watch for signs of bolting. You’ll notice the stems becoming taller and thicker, and the leaves changing shape. Once you see flower buds forming, you have a choice. You can remove the flowering stems to try to prolong leaf production (this sometimes works for a week or two), or you can let the plant flower and develop seeds, which are useful in their own right. I usually do both, letting some plants bolt for seeds whilst continuing to harvest leaves from younger sowings.

Harvesting Your Coriander

You can start harvesting leaves once plants are about 10cm to 15cm tall, typically four to six weeks after sowing. I pick regularly, taking the outer leaves first and leaving the central growing point intact. This encourages bushier growth. Use scissors rather than pulling leaves, as tugging can disturb the roots. Morning harvesting, after any dew has dried but before the day warms up, gives you the most aromatic leaves.

For seed production, let the plants flower completely. The white or pale pink flowers are actually quite attractive and beneficial for pollinators. Once the flowers fade and seed heads form, they’ll gradually turn brown. I cut whole seed heads when they’re light brown and hang them upside down in paper bags in a dry, airy spot. After a week or two, the seeds drop easily from the heads. Store them in airtight jars, and they’ll keep their flavour for months. You can use them whole in cooking or crush them to release more aroma.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Sowing Too Late in Spring

The single biggest mistake I see is people sowing coriander in May or June because that’s when they’re doing most of their garden planting. Whilst coriander will germinate in warm soil, the combination of long days and warm temperatures almost guarantees rapid bolting. You’ll get perhaps two weeks of leaves before the plant flowers. I learnt this the hard way during my first attempts at growing coriander in a community garden in Bristol. Every plant bolted within three weeks, and I couldn’t understand why. Once I shifted my sowings to early spring and late summer, everything changed. If you do sow in midsummer, choose the shadiest spot available and keep plants extremely well watered.

Transplanting Mature Plants

Coriander develops a taproot quite quickly, and disturbing this root causes significant stress. I’ve tried transplanting coriander at various stages, and anything beyond the two-leaf stage struggles. The plants often bolt immediately as a stress response. If you need to start seeds indoors (perhaps because you have problems with slugs eating seedlings outdoors), use deep modules and transplant when seedlings are still tiny. Better yet, consider using biodegradable pots that you can plant directly into the ground, pot and all. This way, you don’t disturb the roots at all.

Inconsistent Watering

Coriander is surprisingly sensitive to water stress. Let the soil dry out completely, then water heavily, and you’ll often trigger bolting. This is particularly common with container-grown coriander, where the compost can dry out quickly on a warm, breezy day. I check containers daily during dry weather and water in the early morning or evening. Mulching around plants with a thin layer of compost or well-rotted leaf mould helps maintain even moisture levels and keeps roots cooler during warm spells.

Overcrowding Without Thinning

When I first started growing coriander, I was reluctant to thin seedlings because it felt wasteful. I’ve since learnt that overcrowded plants compete for light, water, and nutrients, resulting in weak, spindly growth that bolts earlier. Proper spacing gives each plant room to develop a strong root system and bushy top growth. The thinnings aren’t wasted, though. Even tiny seedlings have that distinctive coriander flavour and work beautifully in salads or as a garnish. I treat my first thinning as an early harvest rather than a chore.

Growing Only One Variety

If you grow only standard coriander varieties, you’re making the growing season harder than it needs to be. Slow-bolting varieties genuinely provide weeks more harvest time, particularly in variable British weather. I grow both types now. Standard varieties for very early and very late sowings when bolting is less of an issue, and slow-bolting types for my main spring succession. This approach has significantly increased my overall harvest and reduced frustration.

Expert Tips

Use Coriander as a Gap Filler

Coriander grows relatively quickly and doesn’t take up space for long. I’ve started using it as a gap filler between slower-growing vegetables. For example, I’ll sow a patch of coriander between newly planted tomatoes in late April. By the time the tomatoes need the space in June or July, I’ve harvested the coriander and it’s bolted anyway. This makes efficient use of garden space and provides early-season greenery. It works particularly well with courgettes, squash, or sweet corn, all of which start small but eventually spread.

Embrace Autumn Sowings

After struggling with spring-sown coriander for ages, I discovered that autumn sowings are actually easier and more productive. Plants sown in late August or September grow during shortening days and cooling temperatures, which is exactly what coriander prefers. They don’t bolt, they grow steadily, and in mild winters across southern England and Wales, they often survive right through to spring. I’ve harvested fresh coriander on Christmas Day from plants sown in September. Even in colder areas, autumn-sown coriander in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse provides fresh leaves well into November.

Save Your Own Seeds

Coriander seeds are expensive relative to how many you need for successive sowings. I always let a few plants from each sowing go to seed, then collect and store these seeds for future use. Home-saved coriander seeds germinate just as reliably as purchased ones, and you can build up a good stock over a single season. As a bonus, the seeds you collect are already adapted to your local conditions. I store mine in paper envelopes inside an airtight container, kept somewhere cool and dark. They remain viable for at least two years.

Pair Coriander With Compatible Plants

I’ve noticed that coriander seems to grow better when planted near certain other crops. It does well alongside chervil, dill, and anise, all of which have similar growing requirements. Avoid planting it near fennel, which seems to inhibit coriander’s growth in my experience. Coriander flowers attract beneficial insects, particularly hoverflies and parasitic wasps, which help control aphids and other pests. I often let a few plants bolt near my brassicas specifically to attract these helpful predators.

Consider Growing Coriander Indoors

If you’re really struggling with outdoor coriander, or you want fresh leaves year-round, growing indoors on a bright windowsill works reasonably well. Choose a south-facing or west-facing window, use deep pots (at least 15cm), and maintain consistent temperatures between 15°C and 20°C. Indoor plants won’t grow as large as outdoor ones, but they’ll provide regular small harvests. I keep a pot going on my kitchen windowsill through winter, making small successive sowings every few weeks. The key is regular harvesting, which encourages new growth, and good air circulation to prevent damping off.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my coriander keep bolting before I can harvest much?

Bolting (premature flowering) in coriander is usually triggered by a combination of warm temperatures, long day length, and stress factors like inconsistent watering or root disturbance. Coriander is naturally programmed to flower and set seed quickly when it perceives conditions aren’t ideal for vegetative growth. To prevent this, sow during cooler months (early spring or late summer), choose slow-bolting varieties, ensure consistent watering, and provide some shade during the warmest part of the day. Making successive sowings every few weeks also means you always have young plants in productive growth, even if older ones start to bolt.

Can I grow coriander successfully in containers?

Absolutely, and containers actually offer some advantages for coriander growing. You can move pots to shadier spots during warm weather, control the growing medium more precisely, and protect plants from pests. The critical factor is using pots that are deep enough, at least 20cm, to accommodate coriander’s taproot. Choose containers with good drainage holes, use a free-draining compost mix, and be diligent about watering as containers dry out faster than ground soil. I grow most of my coriander in containers now, as it gives me more flexibility with positioning and makes successive sowing easier to manage.

What’s the difference between coriander and cilantro?

This question comes up regularly, and the answer is simple: they’re the same plant. In Britain, we typically call both the leaves and the plant ‘coriander’, whilst in North America, the leaves are called ‘cilantro’ and ‘coriander’ refers only to the seeds. Some seed suppliers now use both terms on their packets to avoid confusion. Whether you call it coriander or cilantro, you’re growing Coriandrum sativum, and the cultivation requirements are identical. The leaves and seeds have distinctly different flavours, which is why some people refer to them by different names, but they come from the same plant at different stages of growth.

How often should I water coriander plants?

Coriander needs consistent moisture without waterlogging. I aim to keep the soil evenly moist, which typically means watering every two to three days during dry weather, less frequently during typical British drizzle. Container-grown coriander often needs daily watering during warm, sunny periods. The best test is to push your finger into the soil about 2cm deep. If it feels dry, water. If it’s still moist, wait. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and reduces watering frequency. Morning watering is ideal, as it allows foliage to dry during the day, which helps prevent fungal issues. Inconsistent watering, where soil goes from bone dry to saturated repeatedly, stresses plants and often triggers bolting.

Can I harvest coriander multiple times from the same plant?

Yes, you can harvest coriander multiple times using a cut-and-come-again approach, though it won’t continue indefinitely like some perennial herbs. Once plants reach about 10cm to 15cm tall, start taking outer leaves whilst leaving the central growing point intact. This encourages the plant to produce new leaves from the centre. You can typically get three to five good harvests from each plant over a period of several weeks before it naturally starts to bolt. Regular harvesting actually seems to delay bolting slightly, as you’re removing some of the hormones that trigger flowering. However, once flower buds appear, the leaf quality declines and the plant puts its energy into seed production rather than new leaf growth.

Is coriander difficult to grow from seed?

Coriander has developed a reputation for being tricky, but it’s actually quite straightforward once you understand its preferences. The seeds germinate reliably when soil temperatures are right (7°C to 20°C), and the plants grow quickly. The perceived difficulty comes from coriander’s tendency to bolt, which catches new growers by surprise. If you sow at the right time (early spring or late summer), choose appropriate varieties, and maintain consistent care, coriander is actually one of the easier herbs to grow. It’s certainly more reliable than basil in British conditions, which struggles with our cool, damp weather. Fresh coriander seeds germinate better than old ones, so check the date on packets or save your own each season.

What should I do if my coriander starts flowering?

Once coriander starts flowering, you have options. If you want to try to prolong leaf production, you can pinch out the flower buds as soon as they appear. This sometimes convinces the plant to produce a few more leaves, though it’s fighting against the plant’s natural lifecycle. Alternatively, embrace the flowering and let the plant produce seeds. Coriander flowers are attractive to beneficial insects and the seeds are valuable in cooking, either fresh (they have a completely different flavour from dried seeds) or dried for long-term storage. I usually do both: pinch out flowers on some plants whilst letting others go to seed. If you’ve been making successive sowings every few weeks, you should have younger plants still in leaf production even when earlier sowings bolt.

Final Thoughts on Growing Coriander

Growing coriander successfully in British gardens is entirely achievable once you work with the plant’s natural preferences rather than against them. The key insights that transformed my coriander growing were understanding the importance of timing (early spring and late summer sowings work far better than midsummer attempts), choosing slow-bolting varieties that give you a longer harvest window, and maintaining consistent moisture without waterlogging.

I’ve found that successive sowing is the real secret to continuous harvests. Rather than sowing all your coriander at once and hoping for the best, making small sowings every three weeks from April to early June, then again from late August, ensures you always have productive plants available. This approach also means that if one sowing fails or bolts unexpectedly, you haven’t lost your entire crop.

The beauty of growing your own coriander is the flavour difference. Supermarket coriander is often limp and tired from transportation and storage. Your own, cut fresh minutes before use, has a vibrancy and intensity that genuinely improves your cooking. Whether you’re making salsa, curry, or simply adding fresh leaves to a salad, home-grown coriander delivers flavour that justifies the small effort involved.

Start with a single container if you’re new to growing coriander. Choose a slow-bolting variety, sow in early September when conditions are ideal, and you’ll likely have fresh leaves within six weeks. Success with that first crop will give you the confidence and knowledge to expand your growing. Before long, you’ll have coriander growing somewhere in your garden for most of the year, and you’ll wonder why it ever seemed difficult.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.