From Sets to Storage: How to Grow Shallots

How to Grow Shallots

Before you start planting, it’s worth gathering everything together so you’re properly prepared. I’ve learned through experience that having the right materials from the outset makes the whole process smoother, and you’ll avoid those frustrating trips to the garden centre halfway through a task.

Essential Materials

The main thing you’ll need is shallot sets, which are small immature bulbs ready for planting. You can buy these from garden centres, online suppliers, or sometimes at farmers’ markets. I’d recommend getting more than you think you’ll need because they’re not expensive, and it’s better to have extras than to run short. Look for sets that are firm and healthy, with no soft spots or mould.

You’ll also need some well-rotted compost or manure to improve your soil. Shallots aren’t particularly fussy, but they do appreciate soil that drains well and has some organic matter worked through it. If your soil is heavy clay like mine was when I started, you might want to add some horticultural grit or sharp sand to improve drainage. A rake and hoe for preparing the bed are essential, along with garden twine and canes if you want to mark out straight rows.

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Optional but Helpful Items

A trowel makes planting easier, though you can push sets into prepared soil with your fingers if the ground is soft enough. I keep some netting handy because birds, particularly blackbirds, have a habit of pulling up freshly planted sets. It’s infuriating to go out and find half your crop scattered across the bed. Fleece or cloches can be useful for early plantings when there’s still a risk of frost, though shallots are quite hardy.

If you’re growing in containers rather than open ground, you’ll need pots at least 20cm deep with drainage holes. I’ve successfully grown shallots in large tubs and even old trugs when space was limited. You’ll also want some multipurpose compost mixed with garden soil or a good quality vegetable growing mix.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Growing shallots is refreshingly straightforward once you understand the basic principles. The key is timing your planting correctly and giving them the conditions they need to develop those lovely clusters of bulbs.

Preparing Your Soil

Start by choosing a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Shallots need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to develop properly. I learned this the hard way when I planted some in partial shade and ended up with disappointing, undersized bulbs. The soil needs to be relatively firm, not freshly dug and fluffy, because loose soil can lead to the sets pushing themselves up out of the ground as they grow roots.

Dig over the area a few weeks before planting, removing any weeds and large stones. Work in some well-rotted compost or manure, but don’t overdo it. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of bulb development. I aim for about a bucketful per square metre. Rake the surface to create a fine, level tilth. If your soil is acidic, you might want to add some garden lime because shallots prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

Planting Your Sets

The traditional planting time is between February and March, though you can also plant in autumn (October to November) for an earlier harvest. I tend to stick with spring planting because autumn sets sometimes struggle in wet winters, particularly in heavy soils. Space your sets about 15-20cm apart in rows that are 30cm apart. This gives each plant enough room to develop a full cluster of bulbs.

Push each set gently into the soil so that just the tip is showing above the surface. Don’t bury them completely, and don’t force them in too hard because you might damage the base plate where the roots emerge. I’ve found that making a shallow hole with a dibber or trowel, sitting the set in it, and then firming the soil around it works better than pushing them directly into hard ground. Water them in lightly if the soil is dry, but don’t saturate them.

Caring Through the Growing Season

For the first few weeks, keep a close eye on your newly planted sets. Birds will often pull them up, so if you notice any displaced sets, simply push them back in. I usually cover mine with netting for the first month or so until the roots have established properly. Once they’re growing well, you can remove the netting.

Weeding is the main task through spring and early summer. Shallots have shallow roots and don’t compete well with weeds, so keep the bed clear by hoeing carefully between rows or hand-weeding close to the plants. I do this every couple of weeks, and it only takes a few minutes. The plants don’t need much watering once established unless we’re having a particularly dry spell. In fact, too much water can encourage rot and fungal diseases.

Recognising When They’re Ready to Harvest

Shallots are ready when the foliage turns yellow and starts to collapse, usually between June and August depending on when you planted them. Don’t be tempted to harvest too early because the bulbs will still be developing. I wait until at least half the leaves have died back before lifting them. Some people recommend bending over the foliage to speed up the process, but I’ve never found this necessary, and it can sometimes introduce disease.

Choose a dry day for harvesting if possible. Gently lift the clusters with a fork, being careful not to damage the bulbs. Brush off any excess soil, but don’t wash them because moisture can lead to rot during storage. I lay mine out on slatted trays or old window screens in a greenhouse or shed where there’s good air circulation. They need to cure for two to three weeks before storing.

Storing Your Harvest

Once the outer skins are papery and the necks are completely dry, your shallots are ready for storage. I remove any loose outer skins and trim the roots and tops, leaving about 2-3cm of dried foliage. Store them in net bags, old tights, or wooden crates somewhere cool, dry, and dark. My shed works perfectly, and they’ll keep for months if conditions are right.

Check them occasionally and remove any that are starting to soften or sprout. I’ve kept shallots in good condition right through until the following spring, which means I rarely need to buy them. You can also plait them together by the dried tops if you want an attractive and traditional storage method.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

I’ve made plenty of errors with shallots over the years, and I’ve also seen the same problems crop up repeatedly on my allotment site. Here are the issues I’d encourage you to watch out for.

Planting in the Wrong Conditions

One of the biggest mistakes is planting sets when the soil is waterlogged or frozen. I’ve done this when I’ve been impatient to get started, and it rarely ends well. The sets simply rot before they can establish roots. Wait until the soil is workable and relatively dry. If you squeeze a handful and it forms a muddy ball, it’s too wet. Similarly, don’t plant in freshly manured ground because this encourages leafy growth and can lead to thick necks that won’t store properly.

Another common error is planting sets upside down. It sounds silly, but when you’re planting dozens of them, it’s easy to get confused. The pointed end should face upwards. If you’re not sure which end is which, look for the dried roots at the base, or plant them on their sides and let them sort themselves out.

Neglecting Pest Protection

I mentioned birds earlier, but they’re not the only problem. Onion fly is a real nuisance in some years, and their larvae tunnel into the bulbs, causing them to rot. I’ve found that growing shallots near carrots can help because the smell of each crop confuses the pests of the other. Covering young plants with insect-proof mesh is the most reliable protection, though it’s a bit fiddly.

Allium leaf miner is a more recent problem that’s spreading across the country. The larvae create distinctive silvery lines in the leaves before burrowing down into the bulbs. There’s no chemical treatment available to gardeners, so prevention is key. Using fine mesh covers from planting until harvest is currently the best approach if you’ve had problems in your area.

Expert Tips

After growing shallots for years and chatting with other growers at my local allotment, I’ve picked up quite a few tricks that make a real difference to the crop.

Choosing the Right Varieties

Not all shallots are the same, and choosing varieties suited to your growing method makes a difference. ‘Red Sun’ and ‘Longor’ are reliable for spring planting and produce good-sized bulbs that store well. I’ve had excellent results with both. ‘Jermor’ is a French variety that’s particularly good for autumn planting if you want to try that approach. ‘Golden Gourmet’ is worth growing if you prefer yellow-skinned shallots, and it has excellent keeping qualities.

Banana shallots are longer and larger than traditional types, which some people prefer for cooking. They’re actually a cross between shallots and onions, so they have a slightly different flavour. I grow both types because it’s interesting to compare them, and different dishes suit different shallots.

Maximising Your Yield

One tip I’ve found useful is to select the best bulbs from your harvest and replant them the following season. Over time, you can develop a strain that’s perfectly adapted to your garden conditions. Save medium-sized bulbs for replanting rather than the largest ones, because huge sets can be more prone to bolting.

If you’re short on space, you can plant shallots more closely (about 10-15cm apart) and harvest alternate plants as green shallots for salads. This gives you two crops from the same space. The remaining plants can grow on to maturity with more room to develop.

Dealing with Difficult Conditions

If you garden on heavy clay like many of us do, raised beds make growing shallots much easier. Even a slightly raised bed of 15-20cm improves drainage enough to make a real difference. I’ve also had success planting sets on shallow ridges, which keeps them above any water that collects in wet weather.

For those gardening in exposed coastal areas where salt spray can be an issue, shallots are more tolerant than many vegetables. They’re also relatively unbothered by windy conditions because their foliage is quite sturdy. This makes them a good choice for challenging locations where other crops might struggle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I grow shallots from seed instead of sets?

Yes, you can grow shallots from seed, though it’s less common and takes longer. Sow seeds undercover in modules during February or March, then transplant the seedlings in April when they’re about 10cm tall. This method is useful if you want to try unusual varieties that aren’t available as sets. However, seed-grown shallots typically produce single bulbs rather than the clusters you get from sets, so they’re more like growing onions. I’ve tried both methods, and I find sets more reliable and much less work, though seeds are significantly cheaper if you’re growing large quantities.

Why are my shallots bolting and producing flower stems?

Bolting happens when plants are stressed and decide to flower prematurely rather than putting energy into bulb development. The most common cause is extreme temperature fluctuation, particularly a cold spell followed by warm weather. This tricks the plant into thinking it’s experienced winter and spring is here. Using heat-treated sets reduces this risk because they’ve been specially prepared to prevent bolting. Planting at the correct time for your area also helps. If you do spot flower stems developing, remove them immediately by snapping them off at the base. The bulbs will still be usable but won’t store as well.

How many shallots will I get from one set?

Each set typically produces between four and ten individual shallots, depending on the variety and growing conditions. I usually average around six to eight bulbs per set, which gives you a fantastic return on your investment. Larger sets don’t necessarily produce more bulbs, just bigger individual shallots within the cluster. The total weight of your harvest from each set is usually between 200g and 400g. If you plant twenty sets, which would fit comfortably in a small bed, you could harvest around 120 to 160 individual shallots, easily enough to keep a household supplied through winter.

What’s the difference between shallots and onions in the garden?

Whilst they’re closely related and have similar growing requirements, shallots form clusters of bulbs from each set rather than producing one large bulb like onions. They’re generally easier to grow because they’re less prone to bolting and more tolerant of imperfect conditions. Shallots also store better in my experience, lasting well into the following year. The flavour is more delicate and slightly sweeter than onions, with that characteristic hint of garlic. In the garden, shallots take up less space and can be planted more densely than onions. They’re also ready to harvest slightly earlier than most onion varieties.

Can I plant shallots from the supermarket or greengrocer?

Technically yes, and I’ve done it successfully when I’ve had shallots that started sprouting in my kitchen. However, there are several drawbacks to this approach. Shop-bought shallots may have been treated with chemicals to prevent sprouting, which means they might not grow at all. They could also carry diseases that you’d be introducing to your garden. You won’t know what variety you’re growing, when it’s best suited for planting, or how well it will perform in your climate. Proper sets from a reputable supplier are heat-treated to reduce disease risk and are much more reliable. They’re not expensive, so it’s worth buying proper planting stock rather than taking a chance with culinary shallots.

Should I remove the brown outer skin before planting sets?

No, leave the papery outer skin intact when planting. This protective layer helps prevent disease and damage during the establishment period. I’ve occasionally had sets where the skin was already loose or damaged, and these have grown perfectly well, but there’s no benefit to deliberately removing it. Just plant the sets as they come, checking that they’re firm and healthy with no soft spots or obvious mould. The outer skin will naturally break down as the set grows and produces its cluster of new bulbs.

Conclusion

Growing shallots has become one of the most rewarding parts of my vegetable gardening routine. They’re undemanding, productive, and give you a harvest that keeps you in fresh ingredients for months. Whether you’ve got a large allotment plot or just a few pots on a patio, there’s space for a handful of shallot sets.

The beauty of shallots is their reliability. You don’t need to be an expert gardener to succeed with them. Plant them in the right spot, keep them weeded, and harvest when they’re ready. That’s genuinely all there is to it. I’ve found that even in difficult years when other crops have struggled, the shallots have come through and produced a decent harvest.

If you’ve never grown them before, I’d encourage you to give them a go. Start with a dozen sets and see how you get on. I’m fairly confident you’ll be expanding your shallot bed next season once you taste the difference between home-grown and shop-bought. They’re one of those crops that reminds you why growing your own food is so satisfying.

Author: Megan Walker

Megan focuses on seasonal food, kitchen garden growing, and how households can reconnect with where their food comes from. Her writing blends practical growing advice with ideas for cooking and eating in season. With a passion for fresh ingredients and sustainable living, Megan’s articles help readers make the most of local produce while supporting British farms.